A byword for glamour and still evocative of 1960s dolce vita, the Amalfi coast instantly conjures images of steep lemon-studded terraces, hilltop villages, small beach towns and languid afternoons by the shore. Yet this UNESCO-protected stretch of southern Italian coastline, noted for its hairpin bends and dramatically beautiful vistas, offers so much more than a seaside escape. Here you can walk or hike between villages, explore the region’s rich paper and ceramic making tradition, visit local vineyards and lemon groves, eat in lesser-known trattorie and see Roman ruins.
When is the best time to visit the Amalfi coast?
The coast has historically been popular in high summer, especially June to September. However, if you want to truly get to know the area, aim for shoulder season. During busier months, you’ll be sharing the region with plenty of other visitors, resulting in crowded roads, streets and beaches, hectic public transport systems and, often, unforgiving heat. Instead, spring and early autumn are ideal, since amenities remain open and the weather is generally warm. For on-the-ground insight, from what to see, to local history, browse the weekly newsletters and excellent resources provided by Laura Thayer, art historian and Amalfi local, at Ciao Amalfi or @ciaoamalfi.
How do you travel around on this stretch of coast?
The coast’s topography, including winding mountain roads and narrow streets, makes it sensible to leave the car at home and explore by ferry. Weather permitting, Travelmar runs a reliable service between Easter and late October, stopping at the majority of the region’s towns, including Positano, Amalfi, Atrani, Minori, Cetara and Vietri sul Mare. There are also services to cities including Salerno and Naples and to popular Capri. Tickets can be booked online or in person at ferry terminals.
If you are visiting inland hilltop towns such as Scala or Ravello, opt for the network of buses run by SITA Sud, whose main bus hub is at Amalfi. Tickets are bought in advance, available at many local tabacchi (newsagents) or via the more practical Unico Campania app. As high season bus trips tend to be busy and crowded, a clever option is to book a seat on a private shuttle bus instead. Amico Shuttle runs an hourly service between Amalfi and Ravello, starting at €10 – perfect for lunch in either town followed by gentle exploration. Meanwhile CMS Amalfi Coast offers pre-bookable smart busses, from €5, linking several towns in the region.
Delve into the real Amalfi coast
Visiting during milder seasons will allow you to plan trips between villages by foot, revealing breathtaking vistas at nearly every turn. The pretty town of Minori (a few kilometres from Amalfi) connects to its nearby larger sibling, Maiori, via the Sentiero dei Limoni (Path of Lemons). It’s a leisurely 40-minute trek that rewards you with beautiful coastal views and an up-close glimpse of the gigantic, knarled fruits forever associated with this region.
Minori is also connected to the hilltop village of Ravello, beloved by writer Gore Vidal. Comprising around 1,000 steps, the path will take you past tiny churches, simple homes and modest altars chiselled into walls. Another option is to start at the hilltop village of Pontone (accessible by bus from Amalfi) and take the well-signposted mountain pathway to La Torre dello Ziro, a medieval watchtower built to guard against attack by Saracen pirates. You’ll head through pine woods and inhale the scent of wild garlic and fig trees trodden underfoot as you go. From there, amble down to Atrani, Italy’s smallest town, for a seaside lunch.
Anchoring the coast is the former maritime republic of Amalfi, famed for its port and the Sant’ Andrea cathedral, with its distinctive striped Byzantine façade. Avoid lingering in the town’s heaving corso (main street) during high season and instead seek out its public lift, located in Piazza Municipio. From there, head up to the Belvedere di San Lorenzo for peaceful views of the town and the sea beyond – especially beautiful at dusk.
The coast also has a long paper-making tradition dating to the Middle Ages and although many of its mills are no longer in production, its handmade paper is still highly prized. The Museo della Carta, housed in a 13th century paper mill, offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient production methods. Pick up beautiful stationery, including cards, notebooks and writing paper, at nearby shop Dalla Carta alla Cartolina.
Of course, the humble lemon, officially known as Sfusato Amalfitano, is king in this region. At Amalfi Lemon Tours, under the guidance of Salvatore Aceto, whose ancestors have been cultivating the land for centuries, you can get close to these beautiful fruits via tailored lemon grove visits, picnics and cooking alongside his family.
There’s probably no better way to get to know the region than to eat or drink your way around it. It’s little surprise that lemons, fresh fish and seafood star in its signature dishes, from acqua pazza (poached fish in a tomato based broth) to pasta al limone. In Amalfi, both Da Gemma and L’Abside are favoured by locals for their refined dishes presented with a contemporary twist – perfect for elegant lunches and suppers. For a sense of unfussy of Mediterranean home cooking at nonna’s table, try Trattoria dei Cartari, while Marina Grande is an excellent beachfront choice, famed for its seafood. Don’t forget to head inland for the best under-the-radar experiences. In Scala, Il Pinguino offers generous platters of antipasti, perfect for sharing, plus excellent pizzas. And in the tiny town of Pogerola, Osteria Rispoli, with its classic red-and-white check café curtains, offers a daily changing menu of Neapolitan dishes, favoured by those in the know.
The coast offers plenty of choice, from private apartments, perfect for families or longer stays, to pretty bed and breakfasts, alongside a clutch of coveted luxury hotels. Its most famous landmark properties include Hotel Santa Caterina, which balances easy access to Amalfi with a sense of being far from the madding crowd; Borgo Santandrea, known for its Michelin starred restaurant, Alici, and former convent Monastero Santa Rosa, prized for its secluded terraces – all of them memorable push-the-boat-out options. In Ravello, former patrician home Villa Cimbrone is blessed with the best gardens on the coast – and you’ll have them to yourself after-hours.
For a simpler choice in the centre of the action, family-run Residenza Amalphia, a former bishop’s home right in the heart of Amalfi, offers frescoed ceilings, a tranquil interior and generous home-cooked breakfasts each morning, plus the expert knowledge of its owners Gerardo and Giovanna Del Pizzo. During shoulder or off-season, apartments are reasonable to rent and the only choice before hotels reopen for the summer – try the beachfront selection offered by Amalfi Vacation.
There’s no better way to get a sense of the majesty of the coast, with its vertiginous terraces carved out the cliffs, than at sea. Ferry travel offers an easy way to hop between the area’s villages, each one surprisingly distinctive. A few minutes by boat from Amalfi, Minori’s tangle of pretty alleyways unfurling from the main street are worth exploring. The town also houses an impressive custard-coloured church, Basilica Santa Trofimena, plus the remains of a semi-excavated Roman villa (Villa Romana), nestled among a clutch of apartment blocks and palazzi.
To avoid the crowds or to explore a more low-key side to the coast, head to fishing village Cetara, sequestered between Maiori and Vietri sul Mare. Famed for anchovies, which are celebrated every which way on restaurant menus, Cetara’s pretty port is packed with colourful boats, the beach is compact yet less crowded and its church, Chiesa di San Pietro Apostolo, features a pretty green and yellow majolica tiled dome. A little farther along the coast, Vietri sul Mare is home to the region’s colourful ceramics, with a cluster of independent makers lining Corso Umberto I. With over a dozen towns to explore, this rugged stretch of Italy offers something greater than a simple beach escape – all the more reason to return many times over.
