When it comes to pubs, Londoners are spoiled for choice. Though this city does boast a glut of old-school gems, lifted straight from the set of Eastenders and complete with a limited but reasonably priced menu, carpeted floor, a sticky bar and a slightly soul-less bathroom, it is at the other end of the spectrum that things get really interesting. Because for every dated pub it seems there are three absolutely marvellous, modern examples which manage to capture the soul of what makes a pub brilliant, while offering much more in the way of elegant decoration, delectable menus of both the drinkable and edible varieties and plenty of places to while away an evening with a glass of wine and a great friend or two. During summer we flock to the pubs with the largest gardens and the best Aperols, but now that winter is drawing in it is warmth, cosiness, comfort food and festive cheer that we're after. These are the pubs across London which offer these things in spades, allowing us to live out our fantasies of that Cameron Diaz-Jude Law scene in the Holiday, where locals nudge cheek-by-jowl to buy their glass of mulled wine. We'll see you at the bar.
The cosiest pubs in London
The Walmer Castle, Notting Hill
The Walmer Castle in Notting Hill is owned by the independent, family-run Wren Pubs, and achieves the much sought-after balance between completely laid-back, comfortable and cosy while still offering a sense of occasion and sophistication in its delectable menu and extensive drinks options. Decorated by interior designer Isabella Worsley, the space is cocooning and warm: think hardwood floors, lit fireplaces and a mish-mash of well-chosen antiques. On a cold winter's evening, under the dim lights of The Walmer Castle, you will find a sense of relaxation and excitement all at once.
Walmer Castle, 58 Ledbury Rd, W11 2AJ
The Hawthorn, Shepherd's Bush
Despite its main-road location (it sits bang in the middle of Uxbridge Road, in west London), The Hawthorn manages to maintain a feeling of quiet seclusion. This feeling is in large part due to the embrace of the interiors, which feature dark wall panelling, frames galore, small booths and a host of antique rugs on the floor. There is something particularly charmingly analogue about the reservations board, which is a scroll of brown paper that is is checked off as patrons arrive, like a grown-up school register. If heading there on a Sunday, don't miss the roast, which is simply scrumptious.
434 Uxbridge Rd, London W12 0NS
The Ship & Shovel, Charing Cross
Claiming to be the only pub in the UK that is spread across two buildings, The Ship & Shovel's two higgledy-piggledy buildings flank a tiny alleyway behind Charing Cross station. Built in the 17th century, the watering hole is a popular spot for visiting tourists as well as those who work locally and are looking for somewhere jolly, unpretentious and not-too-cavernous for a post-work drink. There is also a brilliant panelled room upstairs which can be rented for private functions, and acts as a wonderful backdrop to Christmas merriment.
1-3 Craven Passage, London, WC2N 5PH
The Fox & Pheasant, Chelsea
Known for being owned by singer James Blunt, this cosy pub is tucked away on a side street just off Fulham Road, and dubs itself ‘a little country pub’ in style, albeit situated in this well-heeled corner of south-west London, a mere stone's throw from Chelsea Football Club. The pub dates from 1846 and has had several name changes over the years, but it has been known as The Fox & Pheasant since 1965. Boasting three fireplaces, you can rest assured that this is a pub with an abundance of cosiness in the winter months. The glass-roofed conservatory restaurant is considerably brighter, airier, and better suited to summer dining, so we'd opt for a Sunday roast in the charmingly traditional pub area in the colder seasons. The excellent bar snacks also deserve an honourable mention.
1 Billing Rd, Chelsea, London, SW10 9UJ
The Queens Arms, Kensington
This pub may be small in size but it is mighty in impact. Nestled on a quiet cobbled street just behind Queen's Gate in Kensington, the wonderfully jolly spot is not just the picture of winter cosiness, made all the more so by the many, many locals who seem to flock on any given night – happily filling the pub and spilling out onto the street beyond. Far from annoying, this lends a rather festive atmosphere to the place, which alongside its impressive wine list has a mouth-watering menu too. For true winter indulgence, go for the burger or the ‘ham, egg and chips’ served with a truly sensational ham gravy. It is also just around the corner from the Royal Albert Hall, so the perfect stop on your way to a concert.
Anglesea Arms, Ravenscourt Park
This is the sort of local that everyone wishes they had. It really could be a village boozer, but is instead on a residential corner off the Goldhawk Road near Ravenscourt Park. Wood panelled and dimly lit, there are two worn leather arm chairs by the open fire, where locals come early to grab the prime spot and read the weekend papers with a pint of ale. The bonus is that the food makes the dining room a destination too. On the wall is a large board with the menu chalked up, where there might be a cauliflower soup with garlic breadcrumbs or a warm salad of Jersey royals, lentils and crispy goat’s cheese (but you can always bet on the ribeye and red wine sauce).
35 Wingate Road, London W6 0UR
Camberwell Arms, Camberwell
There’s always a crowd sipping Negronis or white port and tonics by the bottle-lined bar. Regulars perch on windowsills (both in and outside) if there’s not a wooden bar stool going spare. But it’s a Sunday table in the inviting dining room that’s the hot ticket. The roasts are exceptional – half a spit roast chicken with creamed cavolo nero and potatoes, roast pork belly with braised carrots and apple sauce, or perhaps a chicken and bacon pie with hispi cabbage. Just don’t skip the starters which might include Scotch bonnet pork fat on toast and purple sprouting broccoli with gorgonzola and brown butter walnuts. One of the best Sunday lunch bookings in London.
65 Camberwell Church Street, London SE5 8TR
Windsor Castle, Notting Hill
Once inside this grade-II listed public house you’ll have to duck your head to explore its maze of rooms. The wooden screens were installed by the Victorians to separate the sexes while they drank. But these days, men and women squeeze onto the wooden benches and settle in for an afternoon session by the log burner. More of a drinking den than a gastro pub, it’s all about the beer which rotates an interesting craft crew – from The Cotswolds’ Deya to South London’s Gipsy Hill.
114 Campden Hill Road, London W8 7AR
The Marksman, Hackney
A Victorian pub that dates back to 1865, it was taken over by Jon Rotherham and Tom Harris in 2015 with the purpose of turning it back into a real neighbourhood joint. Interiors are simple but smart, and the food is excellent, inspired by London flavours and traditions. On the menu is a curried lamb bun with salt lime yoghurt, a chicken and press pie and Harris’s famous custard tart. But despite the fancy menu it really does feel like a proper pub with regulars propping up the bar, a jukebox and blue leather banquette seating.
254 Hackney Road, London E2 7SB
The Carpenter's Arms, Hammersmith
Even the garden is cosy at The Carpenter's Arms. Filled with flowers and mismatched coloured chairs there are potted plants on the table tops and festoon bulbs hanging from the trees. Inside there’s more colour than you’ll find in most traditional pubs as well as dogs snoozing by the open fire. The Bloody Mary’s are excellent and the seasonal menu is a step up from the average pub grub with homemade focaccia and Maldon oysters. The ‘bring your own vinyl’ policy in the private dining room makes it a great spot for a party too.
91 Black Lion Lane, London W6 9BG
The French House, Soho
There’s a ‘no phones, no music, no machines’ sign on the wall which sets the tone in The French House. Dylan Thomas and Francis Bacon both drank here and the interiors don’t look like they’ve changed much since. Like stepping back in time, this boozer is always rammed – people tussle for the wooden bar stools and order lager by the half (don’t make the mistake of requesting a pint) which makes it physically cosy. But head upstairs and find one of the loveliest dining rooms in the city. The scribbled menu by Neil Borthwick is posted on Instagram daily and might include French classics such as duck and pork rillette with pickles or confit garlic and goat’s curd on sourdough – delicious.
49 Dean Street, London W1D 5BG
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, Fleet Street
The current building dates back to just after the Great Fire in 1666 but there has been a pub on this spot for a century longer. As a result, it’s an old-school warren of wood panelling, stone fireplaces, portrait paintings and deep plum velvet curtains over frosted windows. Downstairs the dimly lit arched cellar bar feels like a bit of a secret and makes the pub feel much bigger than it looks from the outside. With drinkers that included P.G Wodehouse, Agatha Christie and Charles Dickens it’s an esteemed drinking den with real history.
145 Fleet Street, London EC4A 2BP
Compton Arms, Islington
This little pub always has something exciting going on in the kitchen. Once the home to Four Legs' epic burger it now has Italian sausage and pepper sandwiches and tagliatelle alle vongole on the menu from Tiella. It really is small, but around the corner from the bar there’s an especially cosy nook that everyone wants to get their hands on. Finding a table of any sort is the main challenge at the Compton Arms, but even the beer garden has a warm feel with electric heaters and high walls.
Compton Arms, 4 Compton Avenue, London N1 2XD
The Abbeville, Clapham
In the summer, the floor-to-ceiling windows open onto the street side tables and in the winter there’s always a fire going. The series of small dining rooms make every table feel different – and like you’re in a much smaller pub than you are. The cute mezzanine dining room is a particularly good spot to get a table on weeknight evenings when there’s a serious menu of sea bream and cannellini beans, or on Sundays where the roasts come topped with a huge Yorkshire pudding.
67-69 Abbeville Road, London SW4 9JW
The Mayflower, Rotherhithe
With an incredible spot on the river, The Mayflower has its own jetty overlooking the water. Out front there are hanging baskets of flowers and inside, wooden pews, velvet topped stools and an open fire. There’s a long list of draught ales on tap, and the menu is made up of pies and 1kg bowls of mussels cooked with apple, bacon, cream and cider. The pub takes its name from the first ship to leave London for the Americas in 1620 and as a result there’s few pubs in London that feel so traditional and atmospheric.
117 Rotherhithe Street, London, SE16 4NF
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