Newgale Beach might not have the star power of Malibu or Maui, but on a sunny spring afternoon, I can’t imagine a lovelier spot for a beginner’s surfing lesson. Given my lack of prowess (I manage to kneel a couple of times as I experience the split-second euphoria of catching a wave, but standing on the board proves to be a challenge too far), it’s a bonus that the golden sands of one of Pembrokeshire’s most beautiful beaches are almost deserted.
After a two-hour session with the wonderfully patient instructors from Outer Reef Surf School, we wrestle our way out of our wetsuits and make our way to Wildwater’s mobile sauna. Founders Scott Chalmers and Richard Lynch are local boys who discovered the restorative powers of saunas while travelling the world as filmmakers and saw a gap in the market that enabled them to build a business closer to home. A coastal car park in Wales might seem an unlikely spot to enjoy this Nordic tradition, but being enveloped by wood-fired heat as the light fades over the horizon is blissful.The hot/cold contrast is a key part of the Wildwater experience, so bliss is followed by discomfort as I descend Newgale’s pebble bank and brace myself for the shock of striding into the icy Atlantic waves.
It’s been a day of unexpected pleasures, with our small group introduced to Pembrokeshire’s hills, coastline and scenic towns by Ewan and Laura Rees of VIP Wales. Blessed by unseasonably warm weather, we’ve visited the Neolithic monument of Pentre Ifan, unencumbered by the restrictions and crowds associated with a visit to Stonehenge, and marvelled at the views on a coastal walk starting at the romantic ruins of St Brynach’s Church, a casualty of the Great Storm of 1859. It’s not hard to understand why, after spending several years working in hospitality abroad, Ewan has – like Scott and Richard – become an enthusiastic advocate for the beauty of the landscape and the variety of outdoor activities in the area of south west Wales where he grew up.
The next day, we take to the water with Tenby Boat Trips and even the steady drizzle cannot dampen our enthusiasm for the Atlantic grey seals that seem to be watching us as we watch them diving off Caldey Island. The islands around Tenby are also rich in birdlife, but we’ve been warned that, though nearby Skomer Island is known for its colony of puffins, the best time to see these diminutive birds is from May to July. So, we feel especially privileged when we spot the vibrant orange beak of a lone puffin bobbing on the waves mere metres from our boat. As if for our benefit, it takes to the air and circles around us with a flash of orange feet.
While the clouds are beginning to part by the time we return to Tenby harbour, the morning’s rain is a reminder that holidaying in this part of the world necessitates a pragmatic approach to the weather. Tenby has been popular with tourists since Victorian times and its narrow streets have retained their period charm, with a wealth of smart cafés and restaurants to provide sustenance and – if necessary – shelter from the elements.
Thanks to the quality of what is now available from local food specialists – from cheese to seafood – it’s not hard to eat well in Pembrokeshire. A short drive from Tenby takes us to Saundersfoot, where Lan y Mor is – appropriately for a restaurant with a name that translates as ‘by the seashore’ – making waves with its eclectic menu offering teriyaki enoki mushroom bao buns alongside Welsh lamb cawl, and a stylish modern design that maximises the views of Coppet Hall beach.
Lan y Mor’s head chef Gerwyn John Jones is an alumnus of the kitchen at Grove of Narberth, a country house hotel that has acquired quite a reputation in these parts for its culinary innovation. Executive head chef Douglas Balish is a self-confessed ‘exotic import’ from Scotland, but shows the zeal of a convert in his championing of Welsh produce. Talking about his seasonally devised tasting menus, he describes them as ‘all about the ingredients – crafted with finesse’.
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As befits premium ingredients like lobster tail and turbot, prices start at £120 for five courses at the Fernery (one of the hotel’s two restaurants). But both Douglas and head sommelier Cathryn Bell are keen to challenge some of the myths about fine dining and provide an ‘accessible’ experience characterised by ‘warmth and openness’. This extends to offering vegetarian and vegan tasting menus, and non-alcoholic drinks pairings as well as wine flights. Carmarthenshire-born Cathryn returned to Wales after a stint in Ireland at two-Michelin-starred Aimsir. Her enthusiasm is infectious, whether she is discussing the process of collaborating with Douglas to devise pairings featuring combinations like celery and pear juice with fenugreek and lime juice, or explaining why the ideal match for lamb is Arianna Occhipinti’s SP68 Rosso and how it epitomises the Sicilian winemaker’s biodynamic approach.
The attention to detail that characterises Douglas and Cathryn’s approach extends across all aspects of Grove of Narberth. The hotel has 25 rooms and 12 suites spread across the main house and its outbuildings, all beautifully decorated by Martin Hulbert Design, which has added a rich sense of place to the luxurious interiors with details like antique Welsh blankets and wooden love spoons. My handsome room in the Longhouse building has a glass box seating area that leads out onto a private terrace. Early one morning, I sit on the sofa with a cup of tea, watching the birds flitting between the trees and savouring the sound of the rain on the glass. In this idyllic corner of Wales, even a downpour has its compensations.
Rooms at Grove of Narberth (grovenarberth.co.uk) cost from £260. A communal sauna session with Wildwater Sauna (www.wildwatersauna.com) costs from £15 per person. Tenby Boat Trips (tenbyboattrips.co.uk) offers a one-hour tour from £20 per person. For more information about holidays in Pembrokeshire, see visitpembrokeshire.com.
