I have been in a few ski shops in my time, but I’ve never been offered a glass of wine, a selection of cheeses and my pick of a charcuterie platter while I admire 1,000 euro jackets. But this is Lech am Arlberg – Austria’s ritziest Alpine resort. And Strolz is no ordinary ski shop. Since 1921, it has been catering to the rich and the royal, along with dedicated fans of its ski-world-famous handcrafted, bespoke boots. There is even a word used to describe checking out the wares in its exquisitely appointed four floors – ‘strolzing’. But lest any of this puts you off, it is important to point out that – just like the town itself – Strolz is posh but not pretentious and its staff could not be more friendly.
With its 14th-century church (tastefully renovated in the Eighties) and historic buildings clustered around the river, Lech is the epitome of an Austrian mountain town. Cowherds would once have lived in the huts fanning out across the lower slopes; now many of them have been converted into exclusive hotels. And even the newer chalets have been built to blend in.
Severin’s is one of these. Spread across a pair of immaculate chalets, it is a short distance from the town centre but far enough from Lech’s main street to be blissfully quiet and have unspoilt mountain views. Its interiors are a rich-rustic mix of century-old wood, copper and stone, contemporary furniture by the likes of Minotti and top tech such as huge Loewe TVs, ReVox sound systems and Nespresso machines. With only nine suites, it is the definition of intimate, with service to match. The rooms have huge beds by Wittmann (no, I had never heard of the Austrian company either, but it has been making beds since 1896 and all that practice has certainly paid off), ceiling-high wardrobes upholstered in metrosexual grey felted fabric and substantial seating areas with an open fire, plus a terrace or balcony.
For an even more intimate experience, there is The Residence, a chalet-within-a-chalet, which has four bedrooms and its own cinema room, as well as an open-plan kitchen, sitting and dining room - with a grand piano.
Underground tunnels link the two chalets, under which is an arrestingly stylish granite-walled swimming pool, wellness area and gym. With so few rooms in the hotel, my experience of having the pool to myself – and the pick of its elegant loungers – must be quite common.
Meals are served in a bijou restaurant, at the centre of which is a traditional stove with gleaming tiles that almost distract from the views. Breakfasts are beautifully presented and reflect the emphasis on local produce, including mountain cheeses and meats, and colour co-ordinated fruit. Current head chef Hendrik Friedrich makes harmonious use of organic and sustainable produce, and carefully sourced local ingredients, giving a gentle twist to dishes that don’t stray too far from (superior) mountain fare for the à la carte menu. Traditional favourites such as Kaisershmarrn (baked sweet pancake pieces) are perfectly executed.
Austrians are rightly proud of the quality of local food and wine (my visit coincided with the Arlberg Weinberg festival in December – hence the glasses being proffered in Strolz), so it can be tempting to overindulge. Thankfully, Lech has nearly 200 mile of pistes to explore, with the majority of skiing between 1,500 metres and 2,000 metres. Our ski guide, Paul Rudd ensured we burned a few calories. He hailed from Kent and not New Jersey and is almost certainly a much better skier than his namesake, but somehow it seemed very appropriate that in ritzy Lech the instructors share names with Hollywood stars.
Severin's – The Alpine Retreat start at 690 euros for a Junior Suite. The Residence, which sleeps up to eight, costs from 4.490 euros. For more information about Lech, visit Voralberg Tourism.
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