Bruton, the endlessly creative and undeniably pretty town nestled within the rolling hills of Somerset, has long been a favourite among weekenders looking for good food, stylish country accommodation and engaging things to see and do. It is home to the West Country outpost of Hauser & Wirth, with its Piet Oudolf-designed garden and ever-changing display of contemporary art, the Newt with its fabulous gardens, and a number of independent boutiques and antique dealers: Philo & Philo is located in the heart of the town, World of Differents, Susie Forbes’ wonderful antique emporium in an old dairy, and Bureau Bruton are dotted around its perimeters like gatekeepers to this little gem of a spot. This cluster of culture means the town is firmly established as one of the UK's most vibrant countryside destinations. If anything further could be required to cement this reputation, it is the expansion of Osip, the field-to-table restaurant started by ex-Portland chef Merlin Labron Johnson, which has just joined the growing ranks of restaurants opening rooms.
Merlin first headed west from London in 2019, setting up Osip 1.0 in a small corner plot in the middle of Bruton. The concept was to offer a largely (but not entirely) vegetable-based fine dining menu made of ingredients sourced from two nearby farms. Before long he had earned himself a Michelin star and a Michelin Green Star. Late last year he shut up shop and relocated to a larger space just 15 minutes down the road, to a stone, whitewashed building overlooking the fields. On a summer’s evening, the sun slowly sinks behind the horizon as the sky turns pink, illuminating the wildflower meadow which makes up the garden.
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Clearly, the restaurant has always been a success, but for the perfectionists of this world, of which Merlin is clearly one, there was room to improve. What it needed, he decided, was a few beautifully articulated bedrooms in which patrons (or simply those visiting Bruton but not necessarily eating at Osip) could stay. The four rooms, each named after a Somerset river, opened their doors this month.
Much like the restaurant’s menu (more on that later), the rooms demonstrate the best of what the region has to offer. Each is decorated in a highly refined style. Walls painted white are anchored by wooden headboards and furniture are made using locally felled English oak sourced from a 10 mile radius. On the floor, handwoven jute rugs add to the natural, earthy feel. The spaces are serene, light and airy, feeling completely luxurious and totally unpretentious in tandem. A tricky line to toe, but one made easier if you have interior designer Johnny Smith, creative director of Smith & Willis, involved, as Merlin did.
Of the four rooms, Avon and Brue are duplexes and offer a little more space to those hoping to include a relaxing bath during their stay (there is a bathtub in the bedroom), or nestle into the mezzanine level for a quiet moment to read. For guests who would like to learn more about the ethos behind Osip's menu, a dedicated concierge service can answer any questions and arrange any excursions you may like to do (from September this will include a tour of the local farm, Dreamers, from where Osip sources many of its ingredients). Though parking is available, the restaurant will also arrange a free transport service to and from Bruton and Castle Cary stations.
Though a night’s stay at Osip does not include dinner, guests are prioritised for dinner bookings, and it does include a rather delectable breakfast, which is to be enjoyed in the restaurant. Unsurprisingly, this is not your standard dry pastry and mini-jam affair. Inspired by the bountiful and butter-heavy breakfast offering of old French auberges, the meal begins with black cardamom buns, granola, yoghurt, honey from Osip’s bees and seasonal jams. This is followed by a buffet spread of hay smoked trout, honey roast ham and fresh, local cheeses.
If you are lucky enough to be booked in for dinner in Osip's 30-seater dining room as I was, it is just as special an experience. The tasting menu (which costs £125) changes every couple of weeks based on what is in season, and on the night I visit, it is fresh baby gem lettuce, pigs head, duck with figs and a trio of honey-based desserts that take centre stage. Though arguably, one of the dreamiest moments its spent outside, with an aperitif and a plate of the freshest crudité you will ever eat, as the sun sets over the meadow. Paired with a flight of carefully chosen European wines, the whole experience is exciting and relaxing in equal measure.
Being able to saunter up to bed, full, sleepy and utterly satisfied, is the icing on the delicious cake that is Osip. Here, a cloud like mattress and crisp, cool sheets await, providing a place to sleep soundly before waking up and digging into breakfast. Bliss.
Rooms from £240 per night, including breakfast. Open Tuesday - Sunday; closed Monday; osiprestaurant.com
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