A stylish new hotel puts Eastbourne back on the map for a seaside holiday

The Victorian resort town of Eastbourne has long been synonymous with certain nostalgia-hued sensations – the taste of vinegar-soaked chips, the screech of seagulls, and that tight-skinned feeling of a salt-rimmed sunburn. There was a time when the list would have included the unique scent of a worn seaside B&B – equal parts furniture polish, damp, and yesterday’s fried bread – which turned the whole experience into the type of weekend away that, truth be told, you didn’t necessarily aspire to.

The good news, for those who love sea swimming and have clocked Eastbourne’s proximity to London, as well as that it is only 10 miles from the early 20th-century interior meccas of both Charleston and Farley’s House, is that there is an alternative. Port Hotel on the Royal Parade is approaching its first birthday, having opened in May last year. A converted Victorian townhouse (the only thing it has in common with that B&B of yore) it offers the holy quintet of sea views, good design, hot water, free parking and an excellent menu for breakfast, brunch and dinner. There’s WiFi, large baths and waffle dressing gowns, Nespresso machines, hairdryers and record players – and because the floors throughout are cleverly (and attractively) covered in cork, you can relax when your 9-year-old daughter discovers the joys of the LCD Soundsystem. Once she’s finally tired of dancing to ‘Daft Punk is Playing At My House’, you can (if you have chosen one of the sea-facing rooms) fall asleep to the sound of waves washing over the pebble beach.

The hotel’s design is by the South African-born Imraan Ismail, who took as his inspiration the surrounding coastal landscape. A restrained, mid-century-modern minimalism sits well with the horizon-reaching views of sea and sky, and is softened by curves, well-chosen textiles – including thick, full-length curtains – and a warm, calm palette. You will want to draw back those curtains as soon as you wake to watch the sun rise over the famous gold-domed pier, before the saturating glow of early morning light lures you out of bed and onto the shore. The celebration of locality continues with the cuisine. The chef, Alex Burtenshaw (who was previously Head Chef at the Harbour Hotel in Brighton) aims to source as many of his ingredients as possible from within a 30-mile radius, while catering as successfully for devotees of a plant-based diet as those who dream of the traditional full English. Naturally, that last is an option for breakfast, alongside smoothies, porridge, scrambled tofu and a homemade waffle stack with caramelised banana, and chia yoghurt so delicious that the temptation to order it again, immediately, is immense. For supper, there are sharing plates of seafood and shellfish, as well as several vegan and vegetarian choices – and, for those so inclined, outstanding puddings.

Working it off is easy, via a long walk on the dramatic chalk headland of Beachy Head towards the renowned striped lighthouse, or, if you’d prefer, across the rolling hills of the South Downs National Park – but do make sure you plan time for Eastbourne itself. The Towner Art Gallery is a ten-minute walk along the seafront from the hotel and is identifiable by its rainbow façade (the work of German artist Lothar Götz). It won Art Fund’s Museum of the Year in 2020 and holds one of the world’s largest collections of work by the famed war artist Eric Ravilious – who grew up in the town, and often painted the surrounding countryside. Until July, there’s also an exhibition of work by Eileen Mayo, who modelled for the Charleston artists and was a painter herself. For contemporary art and craft, head to the Devonshire Collective, a creative hub comprising a gallery and studio spaces, situated on a street lined with cafes and independent shops, which, far from being old-fashioned, lean more towards the burgeoning East Sussex hip. But if it is the more traditional seaside escapade you are looking for, be assured you will still find fish and chips a-plenty, a plethora of penny arcades and, if the weather plays your way, ample opportunity to get accidentally sunburnt. It all adds up to a totally delightful weekend escape.

Rooms from £85 a night; Port Hotel, 11-12 Royal Eastbourne Parade, Eastbourne, BN22 7AR. 

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