West Cork: a guide to Ireland’s under-the-radar foodie hotspot
‘West Cork speaks as much to a geography as it does to a state of mind, and set of values,’ says Didi Ronan of eco-hotel Native in bohemian Balledeyhob. ‘It is also a belief in an alternative lifestyle, one centered around communities, healthy food and lives enriched by the arts and great craic.’ With her husband, Simon, Didi has created a design hideaway that celebrates Irish makers. At breakfast the couple forage from the region’s larder to create a table filled with bright Rosscarbery Strawberries, farmhouse cheese from The Lost Valley Dairy and jam made by a friend in the village. Along with three new suites in the garden is the Milking Parlour, a dining space made for community-minded suppers celebrating local producers.
‘People here are living life on their own terms,’ agrees Matti Schulz, a German native who moved here with his Canadian partner Vanessa to run Mossie’s B&B on the wild and little-known Beara peninsula further west. ‘It's really down to earth; with a quiet energy and a sense of freedom.’ Perhaps this is why it’s taken West Cork a little longer than the other side of Cork city (known world-wide thanks to Ballymaloe cookery school) to find its way onto the culinary map.
An early adopter was chef Ahmet Dede who’s Michelin-starred restaurant Dede at Customs House has shone a spotlight on fishing village Baltimore. In the spirit of Simon Rogan in Ambleside, low-key little sibling restaurant Baba’De around the corner has also received Michelin recognition with a Bib Gourmand. ‘But it’s the community that is so wonderful,’ explains the Turkish-born chef. ‘There are so many small, specialised producers here in West Cork practicing organic, sustainable farming. Plus of course the fish is on our doorstep.’
A stay in West Cork is about embracing the weather, braving bracing dips in the Atlantic with hot spells in the saunas dotted along the coastline and touring the bakeries, wine bars and markets (Bantry on Fridays, Skibbereen on Saturdays) dotted throughout. We wound our way through hydrangea-filled hedgerows and gorse-spotted shorelines to discover the foodie pit stops worth making on a West Cork tour.
Where to stay in West Cork
This former farmhouse just a couple of minutes stroll from Balleydehob’s main street has been turned into the coolest stay in West Cork. Husband and wife duo Didi and Simon invest 20% of its profits into rewilding and everything is done with community in mind. There’s a sauna and cold plunge in the yard and a pair of hosts with all the best local connections.
A B&B with five smart bedrooms in the main house decorated with floral wallpapers, velvet sofas and chandeliers. Run by a young couple Vanessa and Matti, the former is responsible for the wild flower arrangements and photographs of the Beara in the breakfast room. For a self-catered option there’s the eccentric Hanno’s Workshop which has a completely different feel – all exposed brick, copper piping and vintage memorabilia. Either way, be sure to book a session in the Finnish sauna (inside a former stone pigs’ house) followed by a cold plunge in the swimming pond.
Elaine Fleming1/14Chestnut, Balleydehob
Native’s Didi cites Chestnut as her favourite restaurant in the region, which is lucky for her because it’s less than a five-minute walk away. Native guests can book a package which includes a dinner at this Michelin-starred restaurant which dishes out mini soda bread loaves with cultured butter and grilled langoustines with bisque. Stop in for a drink at Levi’s Corner House before.
@fishbasketlongstrand2/14The Fish Basket, Long Strand
Take a blustery walk along Long Strand beach and then nab a table outside this fish and chip shop serving some of the best we’ve ever had. There are also fish tacos and open crab sandwiches on the menu, plus brilliant A-Live sodas from Galway-based All About Kombucha.
Ayla Hunt3/14Baba’de, Baltimore
Dede at Old Customs House may be what pulls a lot of people to the picturesque fishing village, but this little sibling restaurant is an excellent entry point. Barbecued Irish lamb kofte (sourced from Fast Net Farm on Cape Clear) is served with pickles and fermented chilli emulsion. Plump langoustines wrapped in filo are a take on a spring roll and the warm rice pudding is an ode to Ahmet’s mother, served with brown butter ice cream. For something even more low key grab a pizza with harbour views from La Jolie Brise.
4/14Drip, Rosscarbery
The coffee is the best in West Cork but it’s the peanut butter layered flapjack which is worth stocking up on. Find the café’s truck down on Warren Beach for a post-swim coffee fix.
Wild Flour5/14Wild Flour, Innishannon
It’s worth a serious detour for the sugar-doused knotted cardamom buns at this little bakery. Excellent coffee and even better bread, pain au chocolats and sausage rolls – all made with their own Wildfarmed flour. After, pop into family-run Rohu’s Country Market, next door which sells all the best deli bits, plus, pizzas on Sunday evenings.
@cahacoffee6/14Food trucks, Quills car park Glengariff
Grab a coffee from brother-run Caha Coffee in Quills car park and then take a woodland loop around the nature reserve (complete with waterfalls, red-spotted mushrooms and trees wrapped in moss) and then back to the trucks at Quills for sourdough pizzas and cheese toasties for lunch.
Aleksandra Schmidt7/14Connolly's of Leap
A small, third-generation music venue where bands come from all over the world to play. They’ve hosted Kneecap on a number of occasions and also churn out excellent pizzas topped with smoked scarmoza, ‘nduja and honey.
Max Cody8/14Arundels by the pier, Akahista
This little pub has a beer garden that’s right on the seafront. The kitchen just across the road (watch out for waiters crossing when driving through) serves knockout fried-fish baps covered in tartare and caesar salad sandwiches on crisp ciabatta. Gorgeous on a sunny day, but cosy inside on a wet one too – with some of the smiliest staff we came across.
customshousebaltimore.com9/14Dede at The Customs House, Baltimore
The best tables are in the courtyard, but of course you’ll need the weather to play ball – if it does, there are few nicer places to spend a summer’s evening eating. On the menu there could be bowls of spiced mussels and traditional Turkish vine leaves served with local lobster. But there are also strikingly simple salads made with tomatoes from Cape Clear island as well as smoked labneh with barbaries. A starry destination to go all-out on the tasting menu.
@ansibinlauragh202410/14An Sibin, Lauragh
Technically over the border in Kerry, but if you’re on the Beara this is one of the area’s best restaurants. Reach it via the staggering Healy Pass and then feast on crisp crudite and whipped feta alongside homemade crab cakes and mozzarella made in Macroom.
@thetinpub11/14The Tin Pub, Ahakista
Possibly the most charming beer garden in the country. The pub itself is, as the name suggests, a simple tin inn that has an air of the Midwest. Order a pint of Beamish (the local’s stout of choice) and then bag a table at the bottom of the garden which looks out to sea. A winding path leads you down past mushroom-filled beds to the beach where you’ll find a swing hanging from a tree and plenty of rock-pooling opportunities.
@siopabeagandseanruas12/14Sean Rua, Cape Clear Island
It’s a 40-minute ferry from Baltimore to Cape Clear – a tiny island with a year-round population of around 100. The soda bread and crab at Sean Rua is excellent, as are the chips and chicken goujons (trust us). Then take a hike before a pint of Murphy’s at Cotter’s pub.
Andy Gibson13/14Field Kitchen
Booking is essential as fresh vegetables are harvested on the day to accommodate numbers . Supper is served Thursday to Sunday with the occasional Saturday lunch club that’s a great shout for families looking to explore the farm trails and mini maze designed with little ones in mind. The menu might consist of grilled focaccia with house ricotta followed by organic Dexter striploin with greens and tarragon mayo. A wonderfully rustic farm-to-table restaurant.
maccarthysbar.com14/14McCartheys pub, Castetoen-Bear
One of Ireland’s first liquor licences was granted to MaCarthey’s, a general store which opened in 1860. These days it’s a must-visit pub on any West Cork itinerary – take note of the sign above the door and order a Guinness.
