Fennel, celery and tarragon soup
Tarragon’s moment of glory has to be a béarnaise sauce, so I forever think of the French as having laid claim to its allure. Certainly, it is an underused herb, but it can be quite assertive if included uncooked in a dish, when a single leaf can be the difference between subtle and overwhelming. I like it best when it is cooked, which calms its temperament, and it is rarely better than in the company of a little butter. Lovage could potentially replace the celery leaves in this recipe and, again, a little goes a long way. This soup lies in the Vichyssoise genre, so is just as good cold. If serving chilled, replace the crème fraîche with soured cream and omit the cheese. It would go beautifully with a spoonful of crabmeat in the centre.
Serves 6
Wine recommendation by Anne Tupker, Master of Wine
The rich, creamy texture and wild herbs, lemon, pears and almonds of the Friulano 2017 from Livio Felluga provide an ideal match for the fennel, tarragon and tangy roquefort in the soup.
£23.50 at Wine Direct
