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June 2023

Lamb polpettine with mint salsa verde

These will vanish quite rapidly – especially with a good dip beside them

4.5

(2)

Lamb polpettine with mint salsa verde
Matt Russell

Picnics should be simple,’ says chef and cookery writer Rowley Leigh. ‘So the kit should be simple: I have enamelled tin plates that are light to carry, Duralex glasses, proper cutlery (I am not a fan of plastic knives and forks) and plenty of plastic storage boxes with lids, which stack easily and are not heavy. As long as you don’t forget the bread knife and the bottle opener, that’s about all you require. I would rather eat recumbent like a Roman than go round carrying chairs and picnic tables. If it is good enough for Édouard Manet, it is good enough for me. The food should be equally unfussy.

Lots of different things piled on a plate just makes a mess and having too many ingredients or garnishes is an opportunity for accidents and attracting wasps. Logistics aside, the first fruits of summer – whether it is peas or gooseberries, melons or tomatoes – should sing clear and sweet. And they need not be messed about with.’

Best made using tender young lamb, these will vanish quite rapidly – especially with a good dip beside them. While they are delicious straight from the frying pan, they are just as good cold. I make mine using the mincer attachment on my food mixer.

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