Squash and ricotta risotto with crispy capers and sage
‘The first restaurant kitchen I worked in was in Florence, 25 years ago,’ says Emily Lampson. ‘Beccofino has since closed, but the inspiration stays with me. The most valuable lesson I learned there was respect for ingredients – sourcing the best local produce and using herbs to bring a dish together. When I returned to the UK, I went straight into Heston Blumenthal’s kitchen at The Fat Duck, before opening The Kingham Plough in the Cotswolds. There, I found myself reverting to Italy when sourcing cheese, meat, fruit and vegetables. We were fortunate – there was plenty to choose from. Now, I cook at the barn on our farm in Dorset, hosting supper clubs and private events.’
If possible, buy ricotta from an Italian deli rather than a supermarket, as it is likely to have better flavour and texture. The risotto should be wet, with a creamy consistency from stirring the butter and cheese in vigorously. You can pre-prepare this to the end of step 3, then continue 15 minutes before you wish to serve it.
Wine notes
The rich but saline character of Verdicchio di Matelica 2022 from La Monacesca in Italy’s Marche would complement both the risotto’s soft but generous nature and the punchier flavours of the Tuscan seafood stew (£19.25; oxfordwine.co.uk).
MAY WE SUGGEST: More autumnal Italian recipes by Emily Lampson
