We know by now everyone is rather sick of hearing the virtues of Notting Hill’s new food wave extolled but, forgive us, we just want to rehash it one more time. It's true that the last few months have seen a wealth of talented chefs set up shop in Notting Hill. From Golborne Road’s Caia, to Instagram hotspot Straker’s, Miznon, Kuro Eatery… we could go on. However, if you’re only going to pick one, it’s got to be Dorian.
Dorian is headed up by Chris D’Sylva, owner of the much adored Notting Hill Fish Shop and Supermarket of Dreams (there’s no one who knew what Notting Hill actually needed quite like Chris). The interiors are classic, with bistro chairs, paper tablecloths and chunky cutlery. There’s nothing overdone here and these choices imbue the place with a relaxed feeling that seems rare in the area. It’s not a who’s who or a spot where you need to be dressed to the nines, it’s a place to break bread with friends, laugh and eat some truly excellent food.
The kitchen is headed up by Max Coen, formerly of Kitchen Table, Frantzén and Ikoyi, who has put together a menu that highlights the best of seasonal produce. We ask to be run through the menu and are told that it is, in parts, a sharing concept, though you wouldn't be wrong to order multiple things just for yourself. Ever so slightly unsure of what that meant in terms of quantities, we both order far too much.
There's little disappointment in that, though, as we merrily make our way through dish after dish. There are Porthilly oysters for £2.50 a pop, crab röstis (a real highlight), beef tartare and trout in a béarnaise sauce cooked ever so delicately. Plates were scraped clean, with the exception of the pink fir potatoes; delicious, just a step too far. Desserts change on a seasonal basis, but whatever the offering, it's sure to be a pitch perfect way to round out your meal.
Dorian might be brand new, but it sits on a site of great heritage. With pride of place on Talbot Road, the venue, once Raoul’s and before that, Coins Coffee Store, has been a locals' haunt for decades. There are one or two too many tables in the joint, but perhaps that just contributes to the convivial, communal atmosphere that Dorian exudes. Though we went at dinner time, it's easy to envisage the kind of long lunch you might have here–the kind that stretches well into the afternoon. Upon leaving Dorian, Chris D'Sylva jokes to us about the ‘W11 prison’ he has built for himself with his three businesses. It might be true, but what a cage to be kept in.
