Greek wine is not a new phenomenon, though it may seem that way from how supermarkets are stocking their shelves. It is, of course, one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world, though it has yet to reach the popularity of its neighbouring countries in modern times. This is a shame, as Greece has a long and storied viticulture and produces some excellent wines, often quite different in style from the usual suspects we might reach for time and again due to the influence of the sea and wind on the final product.
The wines of Greece are starting to gain ground again, however, and The Wine Society has the proof: Greek wine is now outselling Argentinian for the retailer. That says a lot and they’re not the only ones; Jeremy Lithgow MW, Head of Wine at Amathus says “we have seen consistent annual double digit growth in Greek wine sales over the last five years, and over that period we have expanded our range from two wineries in 2018 to 12 by this autumn, with four additions this year alone.”
Greece has tons of grapes across its spread-out lands. In fact, as Matthew Horsley – wine buyer at The Wine Society – explains “the most exciting thing about Greece is the range of indigenous varieties. Technically it has the highest percentage of indigenous varieties per hectare of any country on the planet – even more than Italy! So there’s always something else to explore”. The depths of Greek wine are still vastly untouched in the mainstream and the three household names that have come to the fore are Xinomavro and Agiorgitiko (both red) and Assyrtiko (white).
Xinomavro
The three are quite different and grown in very different regions. Xinomavro hails from the northern part of Greece’s mainland, from a landlocked area called Naoussa. The most successful wines are grown on vines 400m above sea level, making it a lot cooler than the surrounding valleys. This keeps the wines from becoming jammy and sweet and instead a good Xinomavro has tannic qualities and a high acidity – similar to an Italian Nebbiolo. They can age for a long time too, developing spicy, earthy aromas as they do, but there is currently a lot of experimentation by younger winemakers in the area which is bringing a new dynamic to Xinomavro. Local winemaker Yannis Valambous, founder of Vassaltis Vineyards on Santorini, says to “look for Dalamaras and Markovitis” as the top producers.
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Agiorgitiko
Agiorgitiko is also from the mainland, but Nemea on the Peloponnese peninsula to the west. Vines is these region are also grown on hillsides, from 230 to 900m above sea level, with the best examples coming from the vines in the middle of that range – these grapes produce the best balance of tannins and acidity and much like Xinomavro, can age brilliantly. A good Agiorgitiko is full-bodied and most similar to a Merlot but with more spice, or it can be light and fruity, akin to a Beaujolais. For Matthew Horsley, this is who to look out for: “A range of younger producers are taking on their family estates and the results are hugely exciting. Apostolos Thymiopoulos is a stand-out, as well as Kostis Dalamara. Nikos Karavitakis and Dimitri Skouras are a few others that spring to mind.”
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Assytirko
Assytirko comes from the wind-swept island of Santorini. The wind plays a crucial role in the success of Assyrtiko as it pulls a cooling effect in from the sea, tempering the fierce heat that Greece experiences in the summer. Not just that, but it has lead to an innovative way that grapes are grown on Santorini, quite unlike anywhere else in the world; where vines are usually trained along wires to grow laterally and expose the grapes to the sun, in Santorini, they are trained to grow into circular basket formations, with grape clusters on the inside of the basket, thus protected from the wind.
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Other grapes to consider
These are but three grapes in the many, many on offer across Greece and others to look out for are Malagousia – perfect for Chardonnay and Viognier fans; Moschofilero which is similar to a Sauvignon Blanc; Savatiano, akin to a Chablis with its melon and green apple notes – though when aged it is like a white Burgundy with lemon bread notes and a creamy touch; muscat from Samos, a sweet wine that when aged on solera has more than a touch of Pedro Ximenez about it; and Limnio, a red with lots of raspberry and herbal notes.
Yannis of Vassaltis Vineyards knows his stuff and has more than a few recommendations to share. “There is a vast array of varieties and regions in Greece that one should be excited about," he enthuses. "As a white wine drinker I get very excited with Cephalonia, home to the Robola variety that gives very mineral and acidic wines (look for Gentilini and Petrakopoulos!). Beyond those, Savvatiano is an often overlooked and unappreciated white grape variety (love Mylonas and Aoton) and there are some fantastic vinifications of Limniona producing great summer reds with finesse and balance (look out for Oenops and Zafeirakis!)”
Matthew suggests the following: “With prices on Santorini likely to rise again this year following a tricky harvest, people will likely look elsewhere for their Assyrtiko hit. There are a few good examples popping up on the mainland as well as a few on Crete. However I’d encourage people to look towards other varieties such as Vidiano from Crete that offer impressive richness and texture at often pleasing prices – I often find it similar to Chardonnay and ideal for those who prefer their white wines with lower acidity.
“We’ve had great success with our Society’s Greek White – a blend of roditis and moschofilero – two varieties that can create personality-driven wines at moderate prices and alcohols. Moschofilero is especially good for those looking for an alternative aromatic white to Sauvignon Blanc.”
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