How chef Mafruha Ahmed likes to shop, cook and eat

The chef of London arts incubator and salon Young Space, who previously headed up Dover Street Market’s Rose Bakery, reveals where she finds culinary inspiration
Chef Mafruha Ahmed

Chef Mafruha Ahmed

Samuel Wilson
Tell us about what sort of food you like to cook at Young Space. What will you be making for lunch in September?

I tend to cook a hearty, seasonal lunch at Young Space. I think about packing it with as many vegetables as possible. I keep it vegan or vegetarian at all times, while changing the dishes daily. People always want seconds of my aubergine caponata, the recipe for which is included in my new book Extended Lunch. The polenta that I like to make to accompany it can be a little bit tricky, but you can serve caponata on anything really, and it’s pretty straightforward.

How chef Mafruha Ahmed likes to shop cook and eat
Extended Lunch by Mafruha Ahmed (Worms Publishing, £30)
What is your favourite seasonal ingredient at this time of year and how do you use it?

I think aubergine in any of its forms – it is an excellent vegetable for the transition and super versatile. You can put it in a stew, or have it as a dip when it’s still warm outside. Fried aubergine also works really well. There’s something for everyone.

What three ingredients do you always have on hand at home? Where do you shop for them?

My three essential ingredients for the kitchen are Cornish sea salt, olive oil and garlic. I tend to go round most supermarkets and then to one of the greengrocers in Bermondsey.

The recipe for this delicious dish of fresh greens is included in Mafruhas cookbook

The recipe for this delicious dish of fresh greens is included in Mafruha’s cookbook

Do you have a preferred cooking dish or piece of equipment, and which suppliers would you recommend?

At home, I love my collection of salad bowls, which I’ve gathered from vintage shops while travelling round the world. I also have a strainer that I bought from Labour and Wait – I love how it attaches to any pot and I feel slick when using it. And I think that everyone should own a Victorinox pastry knife.

Strainer

Victorinox Swiss Classic Pastry Knife

Which food podcasts, Substacks or magazines do you like for cooking inspiration?

I always enjoy listening to Ruth Rogers’ Ruthie’s Table 4 podcast and I like reading Nicola Lamb’s Kitchen Project Substacks – I think her knowledge of all things pastry is truly impressive.

London UK  2 July 2021  East Street Market a street market in Walworth in South East London
London, UK - 2 July, 2021 - East Street Market, a street market in Walworth in South East LondonVictor Huang/Getty Images
Where are your ultimate food shops and what do you buy?

I do have a soft spot for Waitrose, even though it is pretty bougie. But, locally, I have East Street Market, SE17, which is great for vibes and fresh produce.

Which new restaurants or chefs are inspiring you at the moment?

I recently went to The Lavery, SW7 (below), where the pasta blew me away. I also had a great time at Cloth, EC1 – and loved the moody, intimate atmosphere. I’m a big fan of Slutty Cheff (@sluttycheff) – incognito-yet-outspoken resonates with me.

How chef Mafruha Ahmed likes to shop cook and eat
Henry Bourne