Wine is an ever evolving culture, with new growing regions constantly entering the spotlight, habits of consumption fluctuating regularly, and wider movements for sustainability having their impact too. So what can we expect from the world of wine in the year ahead?
Buy better wine to elevate nights in
Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Events Expert, Master of Wine Barbara Drew, foresees a rise in purchasing fine ingredients to elevate the humble night in. “I think a trend towards really savouring fine food and wine at home will become increasingly evident in 2023. After the initial flurry of excitement around heading out to restaurants and bars after lockdowns were lifted, people are recognising more and more that high quality ingredients, a bottle of mature wine and great company are all one needs for a lovely evening – whether at home or not.”
Buy local
As with any produce, it is important to support independent creators, producers and traders and shop as locally as possible, an idea that certainly extends to wine. Rositsa Kasabova, Bulgarian wine grower, producer and owner of Villa Vinifera, recommends "a focus on small producers, specifically those who own (and can guarantee the quality) of their own vineyards.” Always exciting are “those who dare to experiment with long forgotten technologies or try new ones,” she adds. “With a growing emphasis on eating locally-grown produce, we are likely to see this increasingly reflected in the wine industry as well. English wines are improving year-on-year, with not only award-winning sparkling wines being produced but also white and red wines too.”
Look to old vines and new wine regions
For Chablis wine grower Chris Watson, a glass half-full approach to 2023 will come with investing in pastures new…and old. “We can expect to see much more interest in older grape varieties as well as newer entrant countries to the wine producing world”. Chris adds that we should look east towards Ukraine, Bulgaria and Romania, with Romanian Pinot Noirs already gaining popularity on the UK market.
Rositsa and her son, Wine Technologist and MD Dimitar Kyuchukov, explain that like anything else “trends in wine are circular”, dictated by the harvest and influenced by food movements and agricultural approaches. On which Bulgarian wines to look out for in 2023, Rosita notes “Every region is different, but here in Plovdiv we are famous for our strong red wines. Every 5-6 years the harvest is exceptional. 2023 looks very promising.”
“We are hoping that 2023 will bring more recognition of Bulgarian wine, especially towards the diversity of our local varieties,” Dimitar adds. “Grapes like the Mavrud, Rubin, Evmolpia and Misket among others can surprise wine lovers with something different and unique."
Know your cool climate wines
As well as focusing on newer and re-emerging wine producing regions in countries with an established viticulture, Barbara explains that an industry shift towards cooler climates is currently taking place. “Partly as a response to climate change, producers are heading to cooler regions, whether that is higher altitude sites, or those at cooler latitudes. As producers really start to understand both the weather and soils in these newer regions the wines will get better and better”.
One such region is the Loire Valley. Famous for its fruity Sauvignon Blancs and crisp Muscadets, the Loire’s range of offerings is complex and truly deserving of our investment in 2023. “The cooler climate here along France’s longest river makes for beautiful fresh, lighter styles of wine and the range of grapes grown means there is a style to suit absolutely every palate”. With a strong presence expected in 2023, eyes are on South American Malbecs and Cabernets. Barbara adds that “South America continues to innovate and produce exquisite wines. In particular ultra-high altitude sites in Argentina are an increasing focus, making complex and layered wines from Malbec but also Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. These are a far cry from the heavy, overly fruity Malbecs of 20 years ago, and deserve a place in every serious cellar”.
Buy from regenerative growers
Climate change is having a serious impact on wine growing, as on all other types of agricutlure. Harsher winters are impacting harvests, requiring innovative planting schedules and truly keeping wine growers and producers on their toes. “Early shooting wine varieties have become more susceptible to frost,” Chris Watson explains, and planting schedules are being “managed” accordingly.
In response, the growth of a multi-continental regenerative agricultural movement is helping to combat the consequences of climate change. ‘Regenerative viticulture’ is a term that refers to efforts to eliminate CO2 emissions and a focus on soil and vine health, and this is expected to grow in prominence in 2023. Reflecting on greener wine practices, Barbara explains that “Berry Bros. & Rudd are proud to collaborate with the newly formed Regenerative Viticulture Foundation to help spread the word about this approach. Regenerative agriculture focuses on strengthening the health and vitality of soil, increasing biodiversity above and below ground.”
In the coming months we are expected to see more wines incorporating biodynamic practices, going a step beyond the regular organic certification. As consumers, we are encouraged to navigate our purchases consciously, but Barbara reminds us to be patient with producers and respect their limitations in uncertain times. “Consumers are starting to recognise organic and biodynamic ways of working. Although these suit many producers, they are not appropriate for everyone and alternative approaches are needed”. She adds “We believe it’s vital for our industry to be more sustainable, and regenerative viticulture is something that we should encourage our producers to adopt as they can, little by little”.
Echoing this concept Rositsa and Dimitar suggest the key to regenerative viticulture is patience - “Winemaking in Bulgaria has been around for more than 4000 years. For winemakers to take a major step in changing the way the grapes are grown, it will take time”.
