The smartest farm stays in Europe to book now
The agriturismo rose to prominence in Italy in the 70s as a way to help preserve rural culture after World War II. And in the years since, travellers’ desire to get back to nature and slow down has ramped up several notches. Farm stays are a perfect way to really get to know a place, while taste testing various crops straight from the source. These hotels have a focus on seasonal and sustainable dining alongside slow, creative and mindful activities. They are stays that feel earthy, even if they’re the smartest in the game: meet the farm stay 2.0.
Sibbjäns/Instagram1/6Sibbjans, Sweden
In a restored 19th-century farmstead on the southern tip of Gotland (an island famous for its beaches) is a hotel which describes itself as ‘Sweden’s first boutique farmstay’. The project started as four friends keen to open a simple B&B, but four years on, it had become something much more. Bedrooms are dotted between the main house and limestone barns – 13 of the 22 are a little more rustic with shared bathrooms but all of them are a masterclass in Scandinavian design. It’s still a working farm and guests are actively encouraged to help out with the tomato harvest or to feed the free-roaming hens (who as well as laying eggs scratch the soil and help break parasite cycles). At breakfast there’s said eggs as well as ham from the pigs and just-picked berries. For lunch guests can take charcuterie from the farm down to the beach and in the evening there may be a broad-bean agnalotti or creamy pumpkin risotto on the menu. Allemansrätten translates as every man’s right to nature and this is what the owners wanted to share with their guests – their peaceful corner of the island. Days can be spent exploring the woodland trails, dipping in and out of the rainwater-filled swimming pond and most importantly, savouring the farm’s flavours.
Doubles from £210 B&B
2/6Le Barn, France
Find this boutique hotel on a rambling 500-acre estate just outside of Paris. Part of the Haras de la Cense horse farm, horse riding in the Rambouillet forest is the attraction for many. Two enormous agricultural barns house horses and riders come from Paris for their lessons while little ones will love spotting hares and deer along the woodland trails. But there are bikes to take out too, a natural swimming pond as well as a sauna and Nordic hot tubs in the garden. At the greenhouse restaurant there are just-picked aubergines and pumpkins on the menu. And on summer Saturdays a supper club series, Le Table du Potager, pops up in the vegetable garden dishing up fresh asparagus with ricotta, courgette gazpacho and country-style terrines. On any summer evening there are few lovelier places to be – children play ping pong on the grass beside the restaurant tables. And once the sun has set, a campfire is built and blankets and marshmallows handed around. A wholesome family hotel with acres to explore.
From £200
3/6Eumelia, Greece
This ancient olive grove in southern Greece had been in Frangiskos Karelas’ family for years, but abandoned for 50, before he slowly brought it back to life. The idea was to create a holistic space in a traditional farming setting – “I wanted to include regenerative and biodynamic farming, ecological architecture, environmental technologies, natural bedding and organic food.” says Athens-born Frangiskos who is keen to put people in touch with the difficulties faced by farmers. Now, water is recycled through a natural waste management system, geese roam the grounds in their role as pest protection, and resident donkeys keep the lawns in check. Eco-houses painted in burnt umber sit amidst lavender and almond trees. There’s a zero kilometre philosophy in the restaurant which means the menu is vegetarian, and zero waste. Bright tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, corn and melons create the base for summer dishes. And in the winter there’s spinach, kale and beets. There’s also some of the world’s most delicious olive oil as well as natural wine made on site. A passionate family project which causes its guests to slow down and reflect.
From £210
4/6Fowlescombe Farm, England
The UK has a great roster of restaurants with rooms - many of which have a strong farm-to-table ethos but few are as all encompassing as Fowlescombe Farm. On the edge of Dartmoor is a destination farm with all the design credentials that come with a luxury hotel. Owner Caitlin Owens has worked at Four Seasons and Relais & Châteaux properties, and her partner (in life and business), creative director Paul Glade has brought his architectural nous to the project. He worked with the stone and timber already on site, and with the quirks of the barns: leaning walls, low beams, odd doorways. “For me, the interiors are about warmth and atmosphere: oak panelling, wool from the farm, limewashed walls” he says. Mindful activities on offer include flower pressing, goat feeding and greenhouse yoga. Suppers in the open-kitchen restaurant are a (not entirely informal) four courses showcasing the farm-reared meat and garden vegetables. Crown prince squash, for example, might be used in soups before dinner as well as in homemade breads, or pickled and served with the farm-produced charcuterie – or even in a pumpkin pie for pudding. At breakfast buttermilk pancakes are served with honey from the farm bees and there’s an assortment of homemade jams, yoghurt and farm-reared sausages. A delicious destination to dig into.
From £410 per night (inclusive of breakfast, lunch, snacks throughout the day and dinner, as well as a daily programme of onsite activities)
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Ash James5/6Sao Lourenco do Barocal, Portugal
José António Uva’s family had owned this 200-year-old farm in the dusty Alentejo region for generations before he transformed it into a hotel in 2016. There’s still a deep sense of the past – evident in the giant ‘barrocais’ boulders dotted, historically used as ceremonial sites – as well as the estate’s agricultural roots. “The fact that we are a fully functioning farm as well as a hotel is a blessing, because it allows us to have direct contact with the production cycle and with a number of different, seasonal ingredients.” says José. From wine and olive oil to honey, grains and vegetables, everything produced here is organic. A simple cherry tomato salad with fresh goat’s cheese and a good drizzle of olive oil is a showcase of the understated elegance found at every turn. The bar was once an olive mill, and the spa is by Austrian wizard Susanne Kauffman (only a few spas in Europe are lucky enough to stock her products). The neighbouring village of São Pedro do Corval is known for its pottery heritage and classes can be arranged for guests who should spend evenings staring at the sky – the area is a Dark Sky Reserve, so the star-gazing is staggering.
From £350
Valmar Voolaid6/6Pilguse Residency, Estonia
On a remote farm on Estonia’s largest island, Saarema, is a low-fi creative residence and farmhouse hotel (which dates back to the 16th century). The couple behind it, Maria Tamander (who in a previous life produced the Spice Girls’ Wannabe video) and her husband cinematographer Jon Mathieson are behind Paddington’s much-loved The Cleveland Arms. But while they have previous when it comes to hospitality, this is by far their biggest and most personal project. Maria, who is half Swedish, half Estonian has taken her ancestral home off-grid with solar panels, wind power and a bio waste system. By day there are hikes and horse riding as well as screenwriting and costume design workshops held in a refurbished cinema. There’s also a natural swimming pool and a traditional smoke sauna. In the evenings, longtables are dotted with wild flowers, juniper cordial, homemade rye bread; not to mention gin and vodka from the on-site distillery. There are chickens, beehives, and guests have access to the vegetable gardens and allotments where they can take part in pickling and jam-making sessions. The best bit? “Even if we're fully booked, people are scattered all over and there’s a true sense of escape,” says Maria.
Glamping cabins from £65; hotel rooms from £120
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