An ancient castle transformed into Italy's most exciting new hotel

On a hilltop in Umbria, a once-abandoned castle has been painstakingly transformed into an exquisite hotel by an Italian architect and designer, whose family has been revitalising the ancient Reschio estate since taking it on over 30 years ago
A tour of Castello di Reschio Umbria
Davide Lovatti

MAY WE SUGGEST: A captivating farmhouse in the Tuscan countryside


Yet it is the details that raise this hotel to another level. These include: the delicately monogrammed bed sheets; the sheer heft of the linen curtains that block out the light; the daybeds and chaises longues dressed in rich velvet; the rustic flowers gathered from the garden and arranged by Nencia; the proper-sized desks for those with work to do (the hope is that in the post-Covid world guests may linger longer); and the books, photographs and trinkets gathered to create that same sense of slow evolution one finds in a home. Out of sight are the copper plates inset beneath the floors under each bed to ensure no electromagnetic waves disturb the sleeping guest and a complex air-cleansing system that ‘washes’ the air in each bedroom on an hourly basis. And it is only when it is pointed out to me that I realise there are no corridors anywhere. Benedikt hates corridors, almost as much as he hates any sight or sound of cables, wires or service ducts. There are none of those either, inside or out. And televisions? Certainly not.

From the top of the tower, which houses a five-storey suite, Benedikt and I survey the kingdom of Reschio – the misty hills, the fields of tobacco, the bell tower of the estate’s San Michele church, the hotel’s pool, which shimmers like a shiny coin beyond the castle walls, and, directly beneath us, a medley of terracotta-tiled roofs enclosing a circular courtyard. The only architectural concession to the 21st century is the Palm Court, a steel-framed glasshouse wedged between an outer wall, the bar and the wonderful boot room, where a fire blazes constantly in the grate and a long, wooden table groans with cut flowers, buckets and vases for Nencia’s displays.

The castle feels at once both new and nostalgic, controlled but unfettered, public but deeply private. We dine one night in the hotel’s restaurant, on food prepared by Reschio’s head chef Simone Di Maio. We drink cocktails afterwards in the Palm Court while a friend of the Bolzas plays the grand piano and another sings. Autumn rolls in, Covid rolls on and the castello feels suspended in a kind of limbo. A warm light diffuses across the faces of our small gathering. Camaraderie for sure, but then let us not forget that Benedikt is a stickler for detail – right down to the perfect glow of a light bulb.

Castello di Reschio has double rooms from €680 a night, B&B. Many of the bespoke pieces designed for the hotel will be available to buy through Benedikt Bolza’s design and architecture brand, BB for Reschio, which is based in a converted tobacco warehouse on the Reschio estate.