The best cities to visit in autumn and winter

Our pick of the cities defined by great architecture, thoughtful design and a sense of place, all best experienced as the year turns
The entrance of The Peninsula London

The entrance of The Peninsula, London

WILL-PRYCE

Where to eat: Festive dining at an iconic hotel like The Savoy never disappoints but for something cosier, The Mayflower in Rotherhithe is a proper olde worlde riverside pub, all beams and candlelight, serving roasts and mulled wine by the Thames. Or, something a little more European…Brutto in Farringdon serves Tuscan ragù and negronis by candlelight.

What to do: There really is far too much choice. Browse Fortnum’s hampers, listen to carols in Covent Garden, dip into East London galleries and street art. Book The Nutcracker at the Royal Opera House, skate at Somerset House, then see in the new year by the Thames.

The Kitchin

The Kitchin

marc millar,Schnapps
Lamb and courgette flower

Lamb and courgette flower

marc millar,Schnapps,marc millar photography
Edinburgh, Scotland

Edinburgh in winter feels like living in a painting. Frost settles on Arthur’s Seat, while the Old Town’s narrow closes and Georgian crescents twinkle under fairy lights. The Balmoral’s clock is famously set three minutes fast to keep everyone moving to the festivities, which are known to be some of the world’s greatest: Hogmanay, from December 29th to January 1st, adds a riotous energy with street parties, concerts, fireworks and communal singing of ‘Auld Lang Syne’.

Where to stay: Check into The Balmoral for elegant suites and afternoon tea beneath the glass‑domed Palm Court; its historic clock tower presides over Princes Street. For romance, The Witchery by the Castle offers velvet‑draped suites overlooking the Royal Mile. Adventurous types should consider Fingal, a restored lighthouse moored in Leith, where cabins have portholes and a sense of nautical theatre.

Where to eat: Tom Kitchin’s Michelin‑starred restaurant The Kitchin celebrates seasonal Scottish produce with sophisticated tasting menus; book well in advance for Hogmanay. For cosy pubs, try The Sheep Heid Inn, dating back to 1360. Sip a hot toddy at Deacon’s House Café before exploring the Royal Mile’s closes.

What to do: Browse independent designers and cashmere shops on Victoria Street, then join locals for ceilidh dancing at the Hogmanay Street Party. Between festivities, walk to Dean Village or hike up Calton Hill for sweeping views of fireworks across the city.

A view from the Mönchsberg down into the valley where Salzburg is located. Iconic sights here include the Fortress...

A view from the Mönchsberg down into the valley where Salzburg is located. Iconic sights here include the Fortress Hohensalzburg, the Salzach River, Mozart's Birthplace, Schloss Mirabell and Hotel Sacher.

David Strohmer
Vienna, Austria

Once the leaves have dropped, Vienna takes on an entirely new glow. Palaces are lit like chandeliers, carriages clip along cobbles and stalls outside the Rathaus pour spiced punch. Christmas markets run from late November through December and the Silvesterpfad (New Year’s Eve Trail) transforms the centre into one big ballroom with waltz lessons and fireworks when the Pummerin bell tolls midnight.

Where to stay: Hotel Sacher pairs imperial opulence with impeccable service (its Sacher‑Torte chocolate cake is legendary). For something cosier, Altstadt Vienna mixes contemporary art and antiques in Spittelberg’s cobbled lanes.

Where to eat: Sausage stands are a must, really. For a sit down, try Gastwirtschaft Steman for schnitzel, Cafe Prückel for coffee and strudel, and Salzamt for a charming, handwritten daily menu.

What to do: Skate on the Rathausplatz rink, see the Lipizzaner stallions at the Spanish Riding School, and tour the Kunsthistorisches and the Leopold. Hear a concert in the Musikverein and, in January, dress up for a Viennese ball.

Arctic restaurant at The Arctic Light Hotel

Arctic restaurant at The Arctic Light Hotel

Miika Hamalainen
Rovaniemi, Finland

Santa’s hometown stays snow covered for months and the skies often ripple with aurora. On December 23rd a ceremony waves Santa off on his world tour, which is reason enough to visit during the festive period. And still, after Christmas, the hush of pine forests, husky trails and reindeer sleigh rides are magic enough to stay.

Where to stay: With glass igloos, cabins and snug Nordic hotels, it is hard to choose badly. Arctic TreeHouse Hotel offers forest view suites with picture windows. Arctic Light Hotel brings warm style to the centre. At Arctic SnowHotel and the Glass Igloos you can sleep under an ice vaulted ceiling or watch the Northern Lights from a heated dome.

Where to eat: Nili Restaurant serves authentic Lappish cuisine: sautéed reindeer, creamy chanterelle soup and cloudberry desserts. Warm up with glögi (spiced berry punch) at Santa’s Village or try smoked salmon in the SnowHotel’s ice restaurant.

What to do: Handwrite a postcard at Santa’s Post Office and have it stamped at the Arctic Circle. Join a husky safari through silent forests or visit the Arktikum museum to learn about Sámi culture. Shopping runs to cosy woollen slippers, kuksa wooden cups and silver jewellery adorned with reindeer motifs.

Image may contain Architecture Building Dining Room Dining Table Furniture Indoors Room Table Lamp Chair and Art

Luke Edward Hall's latest project, the interior design of a Peruvian restaurant in St Moritz, Switzerland.

Billal Taright
Inside Badrutts Palace

Inside Badrutt’s Palace

Mark Anthony Fox
St. Moritz, Switzerland

Alpine glamour hits differently and nowhere is that more apparent than St. Moritz, the birthplace of winter tourism. Since 1864, the ski resort has been the choice for royals and film stars. Bluebird days and Champagne‑air nights draw visitors to frozen Lake St. Moritz for events like the Snow Polo World Cup (January) and White Turf horse races, where thoroughbreds gallop across ice. Of course, the après‑ski scene is as polished as the slopes.

Where to stay: Badrutt’s Palace means grand staircases, lake views and a storied nightclub. Kulm Hotel offers slope side convenience and old school charm. Ride the funicular to Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl for sunrise panoramas and stargazing.

Where to eat: La Marmite on Corviglia adds truffles and caviar to mountain classics. Dal Mulin pairs regional dishes with a deep wine list. Chesa Veglia, a 17th century farmhouse, houses three restaurants and a snug Swiss Stüva for barley soup and raclette.

What to do: Take the Glacier Express for unforgettable views, brave the Cresta Run, shop Via Serlas, then take a horse drawn sleigh through the forest to Lake Staz for a winter picnic, so chic.

Tyn Church

Tyn Church

Medioimages/Photodisc
Prague, Czech Republic

In the winter months, Prague enters its fairytale era. The Gothic spires of Tyn Church pierce grey skies, and the Astronomical Clock looks down on markets selling carved toys, trdelník and hot mead. The city’s largest Christmas markets at Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square run from November 29th to December 31st (extending to January 6th for some), while Náměstí Míru’s smaller market offers local crafts and mulled wine.

Where to stay: Four Seasons Prague stretches across historic buildings on the Vltava with views of the Charles Bridge. Aria Hotel, devoted to music, is a cultured retreat near the gardens. Hotel Boho offers modern calm close to Old Town Square.

Where to eat: La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise reimagines Czech classics. U Kroka is loved for venison and svíčková with dumplings. U Červeného Páva serves goulash and roast sausages in a traditional nook.

What to do: Walk the Charles Bridge at dawn before the crowds and climb the towers for views over the Vltava. Tour the castle complex and the Strahov Library, then shop for Bohemian garnet jewellery and glass on Pařížská Street.

Clärchens Ballhaus

Clärchens Ballhaus

Busà Photography
Berlin, Germany

Berlin’s winter is a study in contrasts: an edgy, modern metropolis (where nights never end) softened by candlelit markets and wholesome toboggan runs. The city’s Christmas season officially begins after Totensonntag on November 23rd; Winterwelt at Potsdamer Platz opens early with a 70‑metre sledding hill.

Where to stay: Hotel Adlon Kempinski remains the grande dame by the Brandenburg Gate. Grand Hyatt Berlin is sleek and central. Michelberger Hotel in Friedrichshain offers loft rooms and creative energy.

Where to eat: Lovis, in a former women’s prison, is quietly fashionable. Clärchens Ballhaus combines ballroom romance with hearty plates. Burgermeister is the cult stop for a late night burger.

What to do: Drink glühwein. Drink it whilst strolling Unter den Linden to the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market, or visiting the East Side Gallery’s graffiti, before shopping for design objects in Mitte’s boutiques. .

Tivoli Gardens

Tivoli Gardens

© Reinhard Schmid/4Corners Images
Copenhagen, Denmark

Cobbled lanes, candlelit cafés and hygge spirit…welcome to Copenhagen. Tivoli Gardens morphs into an enchanted village with twinkling lights, merry‑go‑rounds and stalls selling æbleskiver (jam‑filled doughnuts) from November 14th to January 4th. Nearby, the ice rink on Kongens Nytorv invites skaters to glide beneath Hotel d’Angleterre’s lavish festive façade.

Where to stay: The Moorish‑inspired Nimb Hotel adjoins Tivoli and boasts 38 individually designed rooms with marble fireplaces, Bang & Olufsen sound systems and rooftop pool. Hotel d’Angleterre, dating to 1755, remains a bastion of elegance. For a boutique option, Hotel Sanders mixes mid‑century furniture with a hidden roof terrace.

Where to eat: Head to the greenhouse‑like restaurant Gemyse at Nimb for seasonal vegetables cooked over open fire. Traditional smørrebrød is elevated at Fru Nimb, while Geranium, holder of three Michelin stars, offers New Nordic tasting menus. Cosy wine bars like Ved Stranden 10 pair natural wines with Danish cheeses.

What to do: Wander around Strøget for fashion and design boutiques, or explore the sustainable stalls at Christiania’s Christmas market. Visit the Designmuseum Danmark and browse ceramics at the Copenhagen Ceramics gallery, or warm up in the glow of Nyhavn’s coloured houses with a mug of gløgg.

Pulitzer Amsterdam

Pulitzer Amsterdam

James McDonald
Amsterdam, Netherlands

Amsterdam thrives in winter. Fairy lights shimmer on canals, bicycles crunch over frosted bridges and locals drift between glowing cafés. The Amsterdam Light Festival runs into January, illuminating waterways with artistic installations, while the Winter Paradise at the RAI convention centre, which kicks off on 17th December, brings snow slides, ice‑skating and après‑ski bars indoors.

Where to stay: Pulitzer Amsterdam links 25 canal houses with modern art and a hidden garden. Pillows Maurits at the Park offers refined calm by Oosterpark. The Hoxton on the Herengracht is lively and well placed. Traditional canal house apartments are a lovely self-catered option, and yes, they are as pretty as they look.

Where to eat: Restaurant De Kas grows and cooks its own produce in a greenhouse setting. Bar Pif draws a stylish crowd for modern bistro plates and natural wines. Café Restaurant Amsterdam, in a former pumping station, is a classic for steak frites.

What to do: Browse the Nine Streets, visit the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh without the crush, take a candlelight canal cruise, and if the weather turns cold enough, join locals skating on the canals. For a special evening, dine on Vuurtoreneiland, a private island with a glass-walled dining room.

Hallgrímskirkja

Hallgrímskirkja

Stefan Tomic
Reykjavík, Iceland

In Reykjavík, winter fosters cosy camaraderie whilst also being the perfect time to enjoy the city’s quirky aesthetic. Corrugated houses glow with colour, geothermal pools steam into the cold air and design shops beckon on Laugavegur. Kolaportið flea market has vintage finds, and the town pond often freezes for skating. On New Year’s Eve, fireworks are set off by residents, a spectacular, chaotic tradition.

Where to stay: Hotel Borg is Art Deco with a spa. Kvosin Hotel offers spacious, Scandinavian-style rooms in a 19th-century building. Tower Suites Reykjavík sits high above the skyline with eight panoramic suites. Beyond the city, mirrored micro homes at ÖÖD Hekla Horizon come with hot tubs and northern lights watching.

Where to eat: Eiriksson Brasserie is set in a former bank and has a serious wine vault. Apotek mixes Icelandic ingredients with brasserie flair. Sumac adds Middle Eastern warmth. Perlan’s revolving glass dome is a fun setting for fish and chips or herring on rye.

What to do: Bathe in Sky Lagoon or day trip to the Blue Lagoon, see Hallgrímskirkja and Harpa, try a hot dog from Baejarins Beztu, pick up vinyl at 12 Tónar and sample rye bread baked in geothermal steam.

Zermatt village with the view of Matterhorn

Zermatt village with the view of Matterhorn

littleting/Pradthana Jarusriboonchai
Zermatt, Switzerland

Zermatt at the foot of the Matterhorn is a winter postcard: car‑free streets, wooden chalets and the mountain’s pyramidal peak glowing pink at dawn. The resort’s modern lifts access over 360 kilometers of slopes, and Europe’s highest toboggan run on Gornergrat whisks you down to village level in ten exhilarating minutes. Visitors can also meet Valais Black‑Nosed sheep at a traditional barn from early December to mid‑April.

Where to stay: Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, dating from 1879, brings Belle Époque charm, Michelin starred dining and a spa with a waterfall pool. Riffelalp Resort 2222m, reachable by cogwheel train, boasts ski‑in/ski‑out access, a heated outdoor pool and Europe’s highest spa. For contemporary mountain chic, The Omnia houses a Michelin‑starred restaurant and a cavernous spa.

Where to eat: Chez Vrony and Findlerhof are the terrace spots for Matterhorn views, raclette and local beef. Back in town, Restaurant Julen serves lamb from its own flock and After Seven offers refined tasting menus.

What to do: Ride the Gornergrat railway for panoramas, skate on the natural rink, snowshoe through larch forests, and shop Bahnhofstrasse for cowbells, knives, candles and chocolate.

Aman New York

Aman New York

Robert Rieger
The best cities to visit in Autumn
Copyright_ZephColombatto_
New York City, USA

It’s impossible not to include New York City. In December, NYC becomes a metropolitan snow globe: Rockefeller Center’s tree towers over skaters, the Radio City Christmas Spectacular runs into January and Grand Central’s Holiday Train Show delights all ages. Merchant’s House Museum stages Dickens in an 1830s home and Dyker Heights goes maximalist with lights. Gramercy Park’s private tree twinkles behind its iron gates.

Where to stay: Aman New York, in the 1921 Crown Building, provides wellness‑centric suites with fireplaces and a three‑floor spa. The Beaux‑Arts Nine Orchard offers thoughtfully designed rooms and a bar in a former bank. For something unconventional, the micro rooms at Now Now Hotel feature luxury linens and shared bathrooms in a repurposed 1917 building, or The Whitby is bright and textile rich in Midtown. The Bowery Hotel remains a downtown classic with a roaring fire in the lobby.

Where to eat: Pastis still nails the festive brasserie mood. Tatiana at Lincoln Center brings bold Afro Caribbean flavours. Kochi’s nine course Korean tasting menu is a treat. In Brooklyn, Lilia’s pasta and Lucali’s thin crust pizza both deserve their queues.

What to do: See Fifth Avenue’s windows, pick up ornaments at Bryant Park Winter Village, join the Times Square crowd for the ball drop, and do not skip the museums. Cross the Brooklyn Bridge at sunset and detour to the year-round Christmas in New York shop in Little Italy.

Hôtel de Crillon
Hôtel de Crillon
Roasted endive rye bread sauce pickled mustard seeds at Septime

Roasted endive, rye bread sauce, pickled mustard seeds at Septime

Mickael A. Bandassak
Paris, France

Winter flatters Paris. The Champs‑Élysées becomes a glittering tunnel of 400 illuminated trees, markets pop up from the Tuileries to the Hôtel de Ville and the grands magasins compete with theatrical windows and soaring trees.

Where to stay: Hôtel de Crillon blends palace grandeur and modern art. La Réserve is a Belle Époque dream with a book lined bar. Hotel Madame Rêve occupies a grand former post office and pairs seventies warmth with a sprawling rooftop.

Where to eat: Septime continues to lead with precise, imaginative cooking. Clamato serves oysters and small plates without reservations. Cafe de Flore is an evergreen for people watching. For a splurge, book Le Jardinier or the vegetable led L’Arpège.

What to do: Skate under the Grand Palais glass, cruise the Seine, shop Cire Trudon for candles, browse the Marché aux Puces and warm up with vin chaud while admiring Notre Dame from the quay.

Nihonbashi

Nihonbashi

Yukinori Hasumi
Park Hyatt Tokyo's pool
Tokyo, Japan

If Christmas, one of the few times you get a proper break, is not for far flung adventure, then when is? In Tokyo, winter skies are crisp and clear and locals treat New Year as sacred. The first shrine visits of the year, known as hatsumōde, see families wrapped in scarves and kimono queuing at temples to pray for good fortune, while the January Daruma markets fill the air with red and gold charms for luck. In the lead-up, Marunouchi’s trees glow with champagne lights for over a kilometre, and ice-skating rinks and pop-up food stalls bring warmth to the chill.

Where to stay: Aman Tokyo is a serene study in wood, stone and paper above the city. Hoshinoya Tokyo offers a contemporary ryokan with tatami floors and yukata robes. The Tokyo Edition Toranomon brings high drama and Tokyo Tower views. Park Hyatt Tokyo is as cinematic as ever.

Where to eat: SÉZANNE’s rise has been meteoric, reserve well ahead for dishes like Hokkaido scallop with yuzu butter. Sushi Saito remains a benchmark for Edomae. Motif blends French technique and Japanese produce, while ØC Tokyo brings a Nordic Japanese sensibility.

What to do: Shop ceramics in Aoyama and textiles in Nihonbashi, warm up in an onsen, walk the Meiji Shrine forest and buy lucky charms at Senso ji. Join locals for yakitori and sake in izakayas and slurp steaming ramen at counters in Shinjuku.

El Fenn Marrakech
Marrakech, Morocco

While much of the world is retreating indoors, the streets of Marrakech continue to hum. December sun warms terracotta walls and the scent of orange blossom and spices drifts through the medina. Most guides will tell you to go to the Jardin Majorelle and that is lovely, but go beyond it to MACAAL for contemporary African art and Gueliz for a growing gallery scene. The Coffee and Tea Festival brings roasters, blenders, art and music in early December.

Where to stay: Yes to La Mamounia and yes to El Fenn, they are classics. But Hotel Izza is the new designer darling, part gallery, part retreat. Riad Sakkan is another quietly stylish hideaway. Royal Mansour’s private riads remain the ultimate splurge.

Where to eat: If you do not stay at Hotel Izza, at least eat at Noujoum, its panoramic rooftop bar and restaurant, where a seasonal menu combines traditional cooking methods with a European influence. Farmers is a leafy courtyard for seasonal salads and tajines. Nomad reimagines Moroccan staples for the present. Dar Yacout is the place for lantern lit set menus and Al Fassia is loved for slow braised lamb shoulder.

What to do: Wander Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, then see MACAAL. Get lost in the souks, shop for rugs and brass lanterns, and end your day in a traditional hammam.

The Garden at Babylonstoren

The Garden at Babylonstoren

Lauryn Ishak
Cape Town, South Africa

On January 4th the Minstrels Carnival pours through the streets with sequins, brass and ghoema rhythms, a bright burst of the city’s spirit. Summer is in full swing and the combination of beaches, mountains and vineyards is irresistible.

Where to stay: The Silo Hotel above Zeitz MOCAA is an industrial icon with pillowed glass and straight on views of Table Mountain. Mount Nelson, the Nellie, is pink, postcard perfect and restful. In the Winelands, Babylonstoren offers Cape Dutch cottages among orchards and a greenhouse restaurant.

Where to eat: Fyn marries Cape produce and Japanese precision. Test Kitchen Fledgelings nurture new talent on the plate and in the kitchen. The Pot Luck Club serves shareable plates with skyline views. Kalky’s in Kalk Bay keeps it simple with fresh fish and chips.

What to do: Hike Lion’s Head at sunrise, picnic on Clifton at sunset, drive Chapman’s Peak to Cape Point, taste wines in Constantia or Stellenbosch, and browse the Old Biscuit Mill’s Saturday market.

Xochimilcos canals

Xochimilco’s canals

© Günter Gräfenhain/4Corners Images
Mexico City, Mexico

A high‑altitude city built on Aztec lakebeds, Mexico City enjoys crisp, clear days in winter, making it a perfect and more manageable time to go. In December night markets pop up throughout the city and until January the city celebrates posadas (carol‑like processions), culminating in the Día de los Reyes on 6 January when bakeries sell ring‑shaped Rosca de Reyes.

Where to stay: Casa Polanco offers quiet luxury in a leafy park. Downtown Mexico reworks a 17th-century palace with concrete cool and a rooftop pool. Hotel Carlota wraps a courtyard pool in brutalist lines. In Roma, Nima Local House is intimate and well placed.

Where to eat: Pujol remains the benchmark with its aged mole madre. Contramar is the place for tuna tostadas and pescado a la talla. Máximo Bistrot is seasonal and elegant, Nicos is an institution, and tacos al pastor on Calle Campeche (con una margarita, obviously) remain the city’s great equaliser.

What to do: See Diego Rivera’s murals and Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul, stroll Reforma for public art, shop Roma and Juárez for design, hunt crafts in San Ángel and float Xochimilco’s canals. Save time for Chapultepec Park and its museums.

Inside San Telmo antique market

Inside San Telmo antique market

Mariano Garcia Gaspar
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires spends November to March in a sultry summer. Jacaranda trees burst into bloom and tango notes spill from open windows. In January, the city’s Teatro Colón stages open‑air performances, while parks host picnic‑friendly festivals.

Where to stay: Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt brings art-lined grandeur to Recoleta. Home Hotel in Palermo has leafy courtyards and a pool. Faena in Puerto Madero is theatrical and red velvet glamorous.

Where to eat: Don Julio still sets the standard for parrilla. El Preferido de Palermo serves milanesas and classic sandwiches in a pastel almacén. Chila explores modern Argentine cooking and Gran Dabbang riffs on South American and Asian flavours.

What to do: Browse the San Telmo antique market, take a tango lesson in La Boca, ferry to Colonia del Sacramento, shop for leather and alpargatas and idle in Palermo’s parks with maté.

Park Hyatt Sydney sits beneath the bridge with Opera House views

Park Hyatt Sydney sits beneath the bridge with Opera House views

moisseyev
Sydney, Australia

Sydney is like the antihero in a traditional Christmas tale. Basking in beachy bliss, the city glitters in high summer as it rings in the new year with one of the world’s most spectacular fireworks displays over the Harbour Bridge. January’s Sydney Festival adds outdoor theatre, dance and concerts across parks and wharves.

Where to stay: Park Hyatt Sydney sits beneath the bridge with Opera House views. Capella Sydney restores grandeur to a historic building. Paramount House Hotel brings Surry Hills cool with a rooftop pool and cinema.

Where to eat: Quay remains an institution. Saint Peter champions sustainable seafood. Sean’s in Bondi is a beloved, intimate farmhouse table. Icebergs Dining Room is all dramatic blue swells and Italian Australian plates. Firedoor cooks over flame and rewards patience.

What to do: Swim at Bondi Icebergs at dawn, walk to Bronte, ferry to Manly, wander the Botanic Garden and shop Australian designers in the Strand and Paddington markets. Day trip to the Blue Mountains or the Hunter.

One and Only The Palm
Dubai, United Arab Emirates

In winter, Dubai’s relentless sun softens into a pleasant warmth. Outdoor terraces buzz, high‑rise hotels host rooftop soirées and desert adventures are comfortably cool. December and January bring shopping festivals, film premieres and the Dubai Desert Classic golf tournament. New attractions such as the Museum of the Future add to the skyline.

Where to stay: One and Only The Palm is a calm Moorish escape with a private beach. Armani Hotel inside the Burj Khalifa brings minimalist cool and big views. Burj Al Arab is still unabashed theatre. Raffles The Palm delivers palatial rooms on the sands.

Where to eat: Orfali Bros is inventive and rooted. Dinner by Heston reimagines British classics. Reif Japanese Kushiyaki is straightforward and precise. Afternoon tea at Al Qasr’s lounge feels timeless.

What to do: Explore Alserkal Avenue’s galleries, haggle in Deira’s souks, cross the Creek by abra to Bastakiya’s wind tower lanes, book a dawn hot air balloon over the dunes, walk the Dubai Frame, browse the Design District.

Lisbon

Lisbon

© Chris Seba/4Corners Images
Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon in winter is an arguably more authentic experience: it has fewer crowds, cheaper accommodation prices and still pleasant weather (the Lisbon light rarely loses its warmth). In winter, the pastel façades of Alfama stand vivid against clear skies, fado music drifts from candlelit taverns, and festive markets sell ginginha and roasted chestnuts. The city celebrates Natal with a tree in Praça do Comércio and lights along the Avenida da Liberdade.

Where to stay: Bairro Alto Hotel blends Pombaline bones and contemporary polish. Santiago de Alfama is a romantic townhouse hideout. Verride Palácio Santa Catarina is a restored palace with a rooftop pool. Memmo Príncipe Real offers views and a calm infinity edge.

Where to eat: Belcanto leads the pack with two Michelin stars. Cervejaria Ramiro is all garlic shrimp and cold beer. Taberna da Rua das Flores serves inspired small plates and fills early. At Time Out Market you can graze widely. Pastéis de Belém still makes the definitive custard tart.

What to do: Ride Tram 28, stop at the Sé and the castle, shop LX Factory and cross to MAAT, rummage Feira da Ladra, sip a ginjinha from the original counter, then hop to Sintra or Cascais if the sun shines.