Unpacked: Pamela Goodman visits the Polizzis' latest venture, The Star at Alfriston
Let’s be honest, there aren’t many hotel refurbishments which have an accompanying TV series but then there aren’t many hoteliers of such pedigree as mother and daughter team Olga and Alex Polizzi who could command our attention for three hour-long episodes.
My Hotel Nightmare charts the painful rebirth of medieval coaching inn, The Star, in the East Sussex village of Alfriston, following the hotel’s progress from ‘pig’s ear to silk purse,’ as Alex so neatly puts it. The attendant anxieties of undertaking such a project are all there – endless requirements to up the budget (£4 million by the end), rigorous planning regulations to be met, unexpected discoveries made that throw everything out of kilter. Tears, laughter, anguish, joy, fear, frustration – the series is an emotional two-year rollercoaster, its deepest trough being Covid which, as we all know, walloped the hospitality industry almost like no other.
Fast forward to 2022, however, and the hotel has been open for a year, having settled comfortably into its new guise as one of the most desirable places to stay in south-east England. Charles Forte, Olga’s father and Alex’s grandfather and founder of the original Forte empire, must surely be smiling down on a hotel that he once owned. The wheel has turned full circle.
Anyone familiar with Tresanton in Cornwall or The Endsleigh in Devon (the two other hotels which make up The Polizzi Collection) will know what to expect at The Star (and likewise if you have watched the TV programme). If you haven’t, the first thing to be aware of is that the medieval section of the hotel, the bit that started out as a hostelry run by the monks of nearby Battle Abbey, is relatively small, fronting Alfriston’s High Street with its attractive black and white timber frame and ancient oriel windows. There is now only one bedroom in this part, the Heritage Suite, consequently considered the top pick; the remaining 29 are found in two adjoining, 20th century blocks at the back, many overlooking the car park.
Despair not. The second thing to be aware of is that no matter what you overlook, car park or otherwise, your room will be beautifully appointed. Olga Polizzi is a genius at this, a past master of detail, always considering ‘the fly not the elephant’ in her decorative schemes. So while there’s no escaping the fact that the blocks aren’t enormously beautiful from the outside (though they are infinitely more attractive since Olga and Alex got their hands on them), on the inside the rooms are calm, pretty and exquisitely comfortable.
Nature was Olga’s inspiration, so she says, conjuring a gentle palette of pale greens, blues and yellows. There’s dusky rose wallpaper in some rooms; stripes in others, mixed and matched with beautiful fabrics and her trademark blend of carefully sourced furniture (some bits antique and expensive; others modern and less so), bowlfuls of fresh flowers, eclectic books and a fine collection of art. Talking of which, there are two wonderful still lifes by Vanessa Bell near the dining room and a portrait of a young sailor by Duncan Grant in the reception area, reminding guests that no one should miss a visit to Charleston Farmhouse, the famous Bloomsbury set headquarters a mile or two up the road.
And if you’re keen to be out and about, this is perfect walking country with footpaths following South Downs trails in all directions. Alex, in fact, leads monthly walks for guests of The Star keen to explore the area on foot. I set out along the banks of the Cuckmere River aiming to get to the sea and the mighty Seven Sisters cliffs but didn’t quite have enough daylight on my side. I did, however, manage a pre-breakfast amble round Alfriston itself – surely one of the most picture-perfect villages in England, complete with a magnificent church (known colloquially as the cathedral of the South Downs) and a variety of tempting shops selling antiques, vintage clothes, second-hand books, design accessories, locally produced wine and cheese, and lots of tea and cake.
No need for this, though, as The Star is a fine place to eat: al fresco in the new terrace garden perhaps; or cosy by the fire in the 15th century bar; or, as most guests do, in the hotel’s main restaurant with its cleverly stencilled floor, where I dine on South Coast scallops and Sussex beef fillet and where, as if by magic, the Elizabethan lady in a quirky portrait on the wall randomly blinks at me.
Pamela Goodman stayed as a guest of The Star, Alfriston, Polegate BN26 5TA, 01323 870495, thepolizzicollection.com****. Double rooms from £210 per night B&B.

















