Ask a Local: where to eat, shop and stay in Porto

Tom Griffiths

Shopping 

Head first to Coração Alecrim (28 Tv. de Cedofeita), a wonderful boutique selling sustainable, fair-trade, handmade products, including ceramics, jewellery, decorative accessories, skincare and clothes – many created by local artisans. If you go on a Friday or Saturday, be sure to have lunch at Musubu, a new Japanese food studio at the back of the store. For those interested in architecture and design, the concept store Banema Studio (123 Rua de Adolfo Casais Monteiro) brings together various fashion, interiors and beauty brands under one roof (including some of my own designs). I often buy clothes from Earlymade (235 Rua do Rosário), a fashion and lifestyle boutique curated by brother-and-sister team Emanuel and Patrícia de Sousa. I like that they stock many local designs alongside international brands. High-quality Portuguese linens are best found at Armazém dos Linhos (15 Rua de Passos Manuel) and for an interesting selection of mid-century antiques, I would recommend João Moura Martins (47 Rua da Meditação). When it comes to presents, I always give either chocolate from Chocolataria Equador (637 Rua de Sá da Bandeira), founded in Porto in 2009 by two young designers ahead of the game in creating bean-toboutique artisanal chocolate, or exquisitely packaged soap in rainbow colours from Claus Porto (22 Rua das Flores). Finally, indulging my interest in music and books, Materia Prima (232 Rua de Miguel Bombarda) is the best place in town for records, books and magazines.

Don’t miss 

Capela das Almas, meaning Chapel of Souls (428 Rua de Santa Catarina), is known for its blue-and-white-tiled façade depicting the lives of saints. Take a wander in and around Mercado do Bolhão and look out for A Favorita do Bolhão (783 Rua de Fernandes Tomás), a traditional delicatessen. For impressive views of the city and the Douro river, head to Jardins do Palácio de Cristal (Rua de Dom Manuel II), an idyllic spot for a picnic or a stroll.

Eating and drinking 

Not far from my house, Tia Tia (501 Rua do Almada) was opened in 2021 by chef Tiago Feio and his partner Cátia Roldão. The couple moved north from Lisbon to start a new venture together in Porto. The emphasis is on sustainability, healthy vegetarian food and natural wines – go on a Friday or Saturday to try the six-course tasting menu. For traditional Portuguese cuisine, head to Solar Moinho de Vento (81 Rua de Sá de Noronha). If you are looking for the best Japanese food in town, visit Ichiban (454 Avenida do Brasil). My perfect start to a Saturday morning is a breakfast of Turkish eggs and homemade cakes at Época (22 Rua do Rosário). Then, later in the day, Miss’Opo (100 Rua dos Caldeireiros) is great for a drink, while part café, part secondhand bookshop Café Candelabro (3 Rua da Conceição) – located in downtown Porto in an area renowned for its bookstores – is a popular meeting place for a glass of wine. Perhaps my favourite restaurant, owned by my dear friend Isabel Canhola, is the lively Tapabento (222 Rua da Madeira), specialising in seafood and tapas-style sharing plates made with fresh, local produce. Make sure to book in advance.

Accommodation 

Taking its design cue from the elegance of the Thirties and Forties, and with fantastic views across the Douro from its hilltop position, boutique hotel Torel Avantgarde (torelavantgarde.com) is arty and colourful. Each of its 49 rooms has been individually decorated and named after an avant-garde painter, writer, designer or musician. Check out the bar, with its beautiful flower-festooned ceiling, and the serene spa and swimming pool that opened earlier this year. Double rooms cost from €346, B&B.