Cookbook author Mimi Thorisson has spent years refining Christmas recipes for her family, blending the influences of her international background with the local traditions of the places she has lived. In an exclusive extract from her latest book, A kitchen in Italy, she shares the go-to dishes that have become part of her festive traditions.
Christmas Eve with the Thorissons
The Christmas holiday period and all the feasts that go with it stretch out over several days in our house, as I’m sure they do in many other households. We are a multicultural family: I grew up in Hong Kong, which in those days followed British traditions, but my mother is French, so we always maintained a strong bond with the French ways of doing things. My husband is Icelandic and celebrates a bit differently, and we now live in Italy, where they have their own way of celebrating.
In Iceland, Christmas Eve is the night of the biggest celebrations. That’s when they open the presents and have the most important meal of the holidays, while the 25th is a day for meeting the extended family. In our family, we keep this preference for the 24th. Italian tradition dictates that there should be no meat on that night. We try to stick to that rule because we like to adapt to local traditions and we love seafood.
Then we have a lineup of menus that follow in the days to come. On Christmas Day, we might stick to northern Italian traditions and have tortellini in broth and then a roast. Or we might go a little British, and I’ll make a beef Wellington. And usually, on Boxing Day, we do a Russian menu – but that’s another story.
Mimi’s Christmas menu
Featured in Mimi's latest book, these Christmas recipes capture the spirit of the festive season at the Thorisson household in Turin. Plus, she shares some timeless treats (also from A Kitchen in Italy), such as the roast chicken with Marsala gravy, that add a familiar feeling to the Christmas table.
Tap on the links below to jump to the recipe:
- Fried spaghetti-wrapped shrimp
- Lobster and pasta soup
- Lobster soufflé
- Roast chicken with Marsala gravy - a family favourite beyond Christmas
- Struffoli (Neapolitan honey balls)
- Torta di Natale (Christmas cake)
Fried spaghetti-wrapped shrimp
I tried these in Naples and instantly swapped our traditional shrimp cocktail for them. Each shrimp is wrapped in thin strands of spaghetti and fried – very simple, very festive. They’re crunchy, fun to eat, and a little surprising. The children love them. Adults do too, though they pretend not to at first. They're the kind of bite that brings a bit of energy to the table. Now they’re always how we start Christmas dinner.
- 8 ounces / 225 g dried spaghetti
- 12 large shrimp, peeled, deveined, and butterflied
- Wooden skewer sticks, about10-inches / 25 cm long
- ¾ cup / 100 g all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
- ¼ cup / 50 ml ice-cold water
- Vegetable oil, for frying
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- ½ cup / 100 ml mayonnaise
- Juice of ½ lemon
- Lemon wedges, for serving
Serves 6
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook to al dente according to the package directions. Drain the pasta and divide it into 12 even portions.
- Wrap each portion of spaghetti around 1 shrimp and press firmly so it all sticks together. Ensure the shrimp are securely wrapped and place a stick in the center of the shrimp and pasta, making sure to secure everything together to prevent unraveling during frying.
- In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and ice-cold water until smooth and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
- Line a large plate with paper towels. Pour 2 inches / 5 cm oil into a large, high-sided pan. Heat the oil to about 350°F / 180°C over medium-high heat. You can test whether the oil is hot enough by adding in a small piece of bread. If it sizzles and turns golden and crisp, the oil is ready. Working in batches, and adding one at a time, dip the wrapped shrimp into the batter, then immediately transfer it to the oil to fry until golden brown and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to the paper towel–lined plate to drain. Season with salt and pepper.
- In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise and lemon juice.
- Serve the fried shrimp on sticks with the sauce on the side for dipping along with the lemon wedges.
Lobster and pasta soup
We discovered this soup in a small trattoria in Marsala, the kind of place you don’t expect to surprise you. Just lobster, broth and pasta – capellini or short spaghetti – but it was extraordinary. I said it was the best thing I’d ever eaten, which I admit I’ve said before, but I meant it. It feels comforting and luxurious at the same time. The fine pasta floating in the broth makes it feel nostalgic. It’s now the most important part of our Christmas Eve dinner.
- 4 tablespoons / 60 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
- 1 white onion, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 6 cups / 1.5 liters hot water
- 40 basil leaves, plus a little extra for garnish
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- 2 lobsters, cut into pieces (claws, tail, and body)
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 cup / 250 ml dry white wine
- 8 ounces/ 250 g short angel hair pasta or vermicelli broken into 1-inch / 2.5 cm lengths
- 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Serves 4
- In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for about 2 minutes. Gradually add 3 cups / 750 ml of the hot water, stirring continuously, until combined. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce has thickened and is bubbly, about 10 minutes.
- Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine the basil and garlic and pulse until finely chopped. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and pulse a few more times to combine.
- Stir the basil-garlic mixture into the tomato mixture and cook over low heat until the flavors meld, 5 minutes.
- Add the lobsters and stir to coat them evenly in the mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Increase the heat to medium. Pour in the wine, stirring to combine, and cook until the wine has evaporated and the lobster is cooked, about 5 minutes.
- Add the pasta and pepper flakes to the mixture and stir to distribute the pasta evenly so it doesn’t stick together. Stir in the remaining 3 cups / 750 ml hot water and cook until the pasta is al dente, 6 minutes (or according to the package directions). Taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed. Remove the pan from the heat.
- Serve immediately, garnished with extra basil leaves and a drizzle of olive oil, if desired.
Lobster soufflé
One Christmas, we were watching Agatha Christie’s And Then There Were None, and there was this scene with a lobster soufflé. I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I didn’t have a recipe, so I just made it up, instinctively. It turned out beautifully – simple but a little dramatic, in that slightly old-fashioned way I love. Now it's something I always make at Christmas. It rises in the oven while everything else settles. It feels like a bit of theatre, but without trying too hard.
- 3½ tablespoons / 50 g unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the ramekins
- 6 tablespoons / 50 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- ½ cup / 120 ml whole milk
- 1¼ cups / 300 ml store-bought lobster bisque
- 6 large eggs, separated
- ½ cup / 50 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 pound/ 500 g lobster meat, chopped into bite-size pieces
Serves 6
- Preheat the oven to 400°F /200°C. Grease six soufflé ramekins (6 ounces / 180 ml each) with butter and dust with flour, shaking out any excess. Place the molds in the freezer until ready to use.
- In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat until it foams. Add the flour and whisk continuously until a paste forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and gradually add the milk and bisque, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Bring to a simmer over low heat and cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce thickens, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
- Once the sauce has cooled slightly, add the egg yolks one at a time, whisking until fully incorporated after each addition. Stir in the Parmigiano Reggiano and season with salt and pepper. Gently fold in the lobster meat to evenly distribute.
- In a large bowl, use a hand mixer with a whisk attachment to beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Working in batches, gently fold the egg whites into the lobster mixture.
- Fill each prepared soufflé mold about two-thirds full. Place the molds on a baking sheet and bake until they are golden brown and puffed, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
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Roast chicken with Marsala gravy
If I had to choose a signature dish, it would probably be roast chicken. I’ve made so many versions over the years – different chickens, herbs, wines – but this one, with Marsala gravy, feels like home. Good Marsala makes a difference; I prefer one that’s not too sweet. It’s what we eat on Sundays, and only I make it. Maybe that’s why it matters. It's simple, but deeply familiar – the kind of dish that doesn’t need to impress, just to be.
Roast Chicken
- One 3- to 4-pound / 1.4 to 1.8 kg whole chicken
- 4 tablespoons / 60 g unsalted butter, softened
- Coarse sea salt
- 2 large garlic cloves
- 1 ‘bouquet garni’ (combine 5 sprigs of thyme; 1 sprig each of sage, rosemary, oregano, and parsley; and 1 bay leaf in a small bunch and tie together with kitchen twine)
- 3 medium yellow onions, halved, peel on
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 pound / 500 g (about 10) small new potatoes, quartered
Gravy
- 2 tablespoons / 30 g unsalted butter
- 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1 cup / 250 ml dry Marsala wine or sherry
- 1 cup / 250 ml pan juices (if not enough, add chicken stock)
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Serves 4
- Prepare the chicken. Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C. Rub the outside and inside of the chicken with the butter and salt. Stuff the chicken cavity with the garlic, bouquet garni, and 1 onion half.
- Coat the bottom of a large roasting pan or Dutch oven with a generous drizzle of olive oil. Add the potatoes and the remaining onion halves to the pan in an even layer and sprinkle with salt. Place the chicken, breastbone up, on top.
- Roast for about 1 hour, then baste the chicken with the pan juices. Return to the oven and roast until the chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes more. If you have a meat thermometer, it should read 160°F / 70°C.
- Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let rest for at least 10 minutes. Transfer the potatoes and the onions to a serving dish, leaving the pan juices behind for the gravy. Pour into a measuring cup; if you don’t have 1 cup, add the chicken stock.
- Make the gravy. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes more. Sprinkle with the flour, stirring continuously, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes.
- Slowly pour in the wine, whisking constantly, and simmer until reduced by about half, 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly pour in the pan juices and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
- Carve the chicken and serve with the potatoes and gravy on the side.
Struffoli (Neapolitan honey balls)
The first time I saw struffoli in Naples, I was more intrigued by how they looked than the taste – tiny honey-glazed balls, piled high like something from another era. When I started making them at home and shaping them into little pyramids or rings, I finally understood their charm. It feels a bit like crafting a festive decoration. Now they’re always part of our Christmas prep. They sit in the kitchen and we just pick at them all day – with coffee in the morning, or Champagne later. They quietly mark the season.
Dough:
- 2 cups / 240 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- 3 large eggs
- Pinch of fine sea salt
- 8 tablespoons / 110 grams unsalted butter, softened
- 2 tablespoons / 30 ml dark rum
- Grated zest of ½ lemon
- Grated zest of ½ orange
- Vegetable oil, for frying
Honey Syrup:
- Ð cup / 160 ml honey
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- ½ cup / 100 g granulated sugar
- ¾ cup / 60 g diced candied orange peel
- ¾ cup / 60 g diced candied lemon peel
- A few tablespoons of multicolored sprinkles
Serves 6
- Make the dough. Sift the flour into a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add the eggs, salt, butter, rum, and zests. Mix to form a smooth dough, kneading thoroughly. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to overnight to firm up.
- Sprinkle a little flour on a clean work surface and roll out the dough into thick ropes, about ¼ inch / 6 mm thick. Cut into ¼-inch / 6 mm portions and roll each into a ball. Transfer to a baking sheet and lightly dust the dough balls with flour.
- Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Pour 2 inches / 5 cm vegetable oil into a large, high-sided pan. Heat the oil to about 325°F / 160°C over medium heat. You can test whether the oil is hot enough by dropping a pinch of dough into the oil. If the dough turns golden within seconds, the oil is ready. Working in batches, deep-fry the balls until golden and puffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to the paper towel–lined baking sheet to drain.
- Make the honey syrup. In a large saucepan, combine the honey, lemon juice, and sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until combined and bubbling, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the struffoli and half the candied peels and toss until evenly coated with the glaze. Transfer to a serving plate and pile the balls high.
- Before serving, scatter the sprinkles and remaining candied peels over top.
Torta di Natale (Vanilla chestnut cake)
This cake has been on our Christmas table since the very beginning. Chestnuts are my lifelong indulgence – ever since I carried chestnut paste to school as a girl. Rich yet delicately light, it’s the perfect finish to a festive meal. For me, Christmas isn’t complete without it.
- 4 large eggs, separated
- 5½ tablespoons / 80 g salted butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing the pan
- 1 pound / 500 g crème de marron (sweetened vanilla chestnut cream)
- ½ cup / 55 g self-rising flour, sifted, plus more for dusting
- Powdered sugar, for dusting
- 4 glazed chestnuts (marrons glacés), for garnish (optional)
Serves 4 to 6
- Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C. Generously grease a 9-inch / 23 cm cake pan with butter and dust with flour, shaking out any excess.
- In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, butter, and chestnut cream until smooth. Fold in the sifted flour until fully incorporated.
- In a separate large bowl, use a hand mixer with a whisk attachment to beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the whisked egg whites into the chestnut mixture, taking care to maintain the airy texture.
- Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Let cool in the pan for about 10 minutes before unmolding onto a wire rack. Let cool completely.
- Before serving, dust the cake with powdered sugar and decorate with the glazed chestnuts (if using).
Mimi’s Christmas cooking carries the flavours of all the places she has called home. In her latest book, A Kitchen in Italy, she shares many more of the dishes she loves to cook throughout the year. Buy it here.
Credits:
A Kitchen in Italy, Text copyright © 2025 by Marie-France Thorisson.
Photography copyright © 2025 by Oddur Thorisson.
Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC.
