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Arriving by seaplane from the Maldives capital Malé, gliding over turquoise seas with tiny islands scattered as far as the horizon stretches is a rather exceptional start to a holiday, even for someone who really does not like small planes. My destination, the small island of Iru Fushi, part of Sun Siyam Resorts collection of five private-island retreats (plus a boutique island resort in Sri Lanka) sits in the unspoilt Noonu Atoll in the Indian Ocean. A walk down the bleached wooden jetty is sweetened by a cold towel offered from a rattan basket, an even colder glass of homemade juice in hand, and the island lying ahead of you, its lush green vegetation offering a welcome canopy from the sun. Only 800 meters long and spanning 52 acres, Iru Fushi takes just 30 minutes to walk around and is navigated via paths lines with coconut palms, banyan trees and hibiscus. It is one of the smallest yet most private islands I have ever stayed on: though visitors to the island are often moving barefoot or by buggy along the sandy paths, the vegetation is so dense and tropical that it feels as though you have the island to yourself.
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My room, a Horizon Water villa with Pool, was on the other side of the island from the jetty and a short buggy ride through lush vegetation. A second long wooden jetty stretches away from the powdery white sand beach – this one branches off towards a number of circular thatched villas perched on stilts above clear turquoise water: the kind of accommodation that Robinson Crusoe could only dream of. For some, the sound of waves lapping beneath you as you fall asleep is the greatest lullaby. To sleep in a villa built over the sea with not only the sound of the sea, but views of it from every spot, is more than a lullaby, it is a symphony. Despite my best efforts to spend the night with my face pressed against the glass panel on the floor in the hopes of spotting a shark or sting ray, I slept deeply in the room's most comfortable bed. There are 221 rooms on Iru Fushi which include overwater as well as thatched beach villas, some with outdoor terraces, whirlpool tubs and pools. The villas are all decorated in neutral pale colours with vaulted wooden ceilings, dark floors and Maldivian-inspired textiles. A large balcony with sun loungers that overlooks the lagoon (on my side of the jetty) also has a slide that offers a thrilling, if slightly speedy entry into the water.
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There are of course plenty of water activities on offer at Iru Fushi. While many resorts offer guests the chance to participate in sustainability projects, here at Iru Fushi it is woven into the ethos of the entire resort. Not only does the resort have a resident marine biologist who takes guests on conservation snorkelling excursions, but the Sun Siyam Cares initiative covers the reduction of energy and water usage, reducing plastic waste and perhaps most importantly of all supporting community development and small businesses. Their dedication to these initiatives has resulted in a Travelife Gold Certificate. During my stay we visited one of the three farm islands that Sun Siyam Resorts owns, the island was in fact once the home of the owner, Ahmed Siyam Mohamed. Here we learnt about farming initiatives which supply over 38 varieties of fruit and vegetables to the resort's restaurants each week. It was a far cry from the Maldives I had visited over thirty years ago when all the food was flown in and much of it came from cans. There are women’s projects including a co-operative which makes all of the bread, the deliciously moreish ‘roshi’ or ‘roti’ that are also distributed to the resorts.
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There are 14 restaurants and bars on Iru Fushi, Islanders Grill focuses on seafood including Maldivian lobster and yellow fish tuna as well as the freshest catch of the day. The Italian restaurant Trio served me the best linguine of my life and Taste of India offers dishes from both the North and South of India. For guests wanting to get fully involved there are cooking classes where you can learn the fine art of sushi preparation, and create both Thai and Maldivian dishes. There is no shortage of things to do on Iru Fushi, aside from the snorkelling, water sports, and island trips there are also craft workshops and nature walks. But time has to be set aside for a trip to the award winning Thalgo Spa at Iru Fushi, with twenty rooms set in an enchanting tropical garden. Here the exceptional therapists offer over 140 treatments as well as guided meditation, yoga and consultations with the resident Ayurvedic doctor. My anti-ageing facial and traditional Balinese massage are among the best treatments I have ever experienced.
The Maldives has long been a destination for those seeking an authentic desert island experience: perfect weather, perfect beaches and perfect blue seas are a given here. But few islands offer this level of perfection with such a strong commitment to conservation and the local community. Iru Fushi is not just another beautiful Maldivian island, it is much more than this. From the moment you step from seaplane to seajetty there is a sense of seclusion, a feeling that you have stepped away from the world, but also a strong sense that you have been woven into another. This world on Iru Fushi is about community and responsibility, both for the vast oceans that surround it and the people who live on it and that is the most perfect reason to stay.
From £2,404 per person based on a family of four sharing a room: eight nights all-inclusive at Siyam World staying in a Beach Suite with a pool. From £2,091 per person based on two adults travelling and sharing a room: eight nights at Sun Siyam Iru Fushi staying in a Beach Villa. Find out more information about the resorts at sunsiyam.com. Book through virginholidays.co.uk or call 0344 557 3859.
