Apple & cinnamon semifreddo with caramelised hazelnuts

‘The first restaurant kitchen I worked in was in Florence, 25 years ago,’ says Emily Lampson. ‘Beccofino has since closed, but the inspiration stays with me. The most valuable lesson I learned there was respect for ingredients – sourcing the best local produce and using herbs to bring a dish together. When I returned to the UK, I went straight into Heston Blumenthal’s kitchen at The Fat Duck, before opening The Kingham Plough in the Cotswolds. There, I found myself reverting to Italy when sourcing cheese, meat, fruit and vegetables. We were fortunate – there was plenty to choose from. Now, I cook at the barn on our farm in Dorset, hosting supper clubs and private events.’

I love making ice cream. It is a brilliant way to use up a glut of fruit, or some things you might have left over from a pudding you’ve made – a bit of honeycomb, some caramelised nuts. Not everyone has an ice cream machine to hand, so a semifreddo is an easy alternative method to get the effect at home.

Wine notes

This pudding with touches of spice and roasted nuts would be enhanced by a luscious vin santo like Santa Cristina, with its butterscotch and caramel richness (£18.50; waitrosecellar.com)

MAY WE SUGGEST: More autumnal Italian recipes by Emily Lampson