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Mussels in cider with dulse butter

Diana Henry's simple starter is inspired by her childhood in Northern Ireland
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Martin Poole

Dulse is the seaweed I grew up with in Northern Ireland. We bought it, dried, in paper bags and ate it while walking by the sea. It makes a lovely butter to melt over fish, and over shellfish you get a double blast of the flavour of the sea. You can buy Northern Irish dulse from healthysupplies.co.uk or dried Spanish dulse from souschef.co.uk.

To drink: The dulse butter adds richness, so choose a dry white that has an element of buttery or nutty richness to match. Chablis, Godello, Verdicchio, good Soave, or lightly oaked Chenin Blanc are all contenders here,

Recipe by Diana Henry; photograph by Martin Poole; food preparation and styling by Aya Nishimura; table styling by Alexander Breeze; wine recommendations by Joanna Simon.